Thursday, November 12, 2009

Staging A Condo...."sneek peek" (video content)

Staging A Condo....."sneek peek". Staging a condo can be fun & rewarding. You don't have to be a professional to stage your own condo but you will need a few things: vision, cash, & most importantly......time. Blending these 3 things together is the "magic potion" for any "staging condo project" to be a success. Time to make some important decisions:

* Do you have the "vision" as to what you want & how to achieve it? Can you see things in your mind that may look good together & can you judge sizes, colors, textures, that may or may not look good together. Will the staging items "fit" in the areas needed & blend together without looking too sparse or.....over crowded?

Can you blend new with old & what about "gently used"? What furniture will go with the colors of your walls or that wall paper you thought you were going to have to remove but don't want the hassle? Do you have this "knack"? Is it in you? Be truthful. This will help you with your staging condo project.

* How much money do you want to spend on your staging condo project? Is money no object or do you have a "strict" budget to go by or can you hit "the middle of the road" with your staging project costs? This is a very important question you will have to answer.

If you haven't answered this question yet......stop! Do not go any further until you have answered this question. You may have to go & look at pricing out some of your major items & this will help you gauge your apprx. costs for your staging condo project. This will enable you to make this important decision.

Stand back & carefully review the existing furniture/accessories in your condo & see what you may be able to "re-use" with your staging project, as to lower the overall costs (if your budget "decides" this for you). You may surprise yourself with this excercise, not realizing by just moving things around, you might be able to take a "bite" out of your projected purchasing costs.....wow!

* The most important question to answer though is: do you have the necessary "time" to stage your condo? You won't be able to just go to one store & pick up everything you need for your staging condo project. Don't be in la la land thinking this will happen because it won't. You will be "combing the streets" for just the right armoire or the right color & texture of the couch you visioned, etc., etc.......the list goes on.

You not only need to have the time to shop for all of your items for your staging project, you will also need the time to haul away the old "stuff" or hire someone to haul away (don't forget to budget for this). You might also want to put some adds up to possibly sell some of your "stuff" you're going to be hauling away. That exta cash could be used towards purchasing your "new" items.

Once that has been done, it's time to put together the rooms & install pictures, mirrors, etc.. Did I mention that you might want to be familiar with a few items such as: tape measure, level, electric drill, picture hangers, plastic anchors, etc.? Get those pictures, mirrors, accessories hanging & placed properly.......this makes "all" the difference.

Do you want your condo staging project to turn out looking just "ok" or do you want it to look GREAT? The amount of "time" you "invest" in your project will determine the outcome of the overall look of your staging condo project....capeche?

Take a look at this video which shows existing conditions before commencing with staging a condo project. I know....your condo will not look the exact as this but I want you to put your thinking cap on as to how this video applies to your project......grasp the concept here....ok? The important thing is that you "get" the "concept". Did you ever think you were going to be a "decorator"?

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You're not getting bored yet are you? I still have a ways to go but I figure "the more I talk"....."the more you learn". Fair trade-off.....right?

Now make your lists, check them twice, then it's time for the fun to begin......shopping! If you love to shop then this is for you. If you hate to shop....you may "not" want to tackle staging your condo. What?......Chicken? It's OK. You can change your mind if you need to. My Dad always says: "A wise man changes his mind....a fool never does" ..ssshhhhhh........use this saying whenever needed!

Remember when shopping: you don't have to buy all brand new furniture/accessories. Mix it up with "gently used" furniture, etc.. You'll be amazed at what you can find if you just "look". There's many a unique & one of a kind pieces out there "hiding", that may just go with your staging condo project. It's your job to find "them".......this is where your time comes into play.

Here's the staging condo project completed. The staging came out great.....I think! As you are viewing this video, keep your staging condo project in mind on how this video applies to "your" project. If that's the only thing (concept I'm talking here) you take from this article (always seeing how something can apply to your project) then give yourself a gold star! OK....here's the video. Don't ooh & ahh too much!

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The owner wanted an "Asian/Contemporary" feel for the staging project. Darker colors were used for a warmer look. A combination of golden colors were used with dashes of rust, deep reds, browns, blacks thrown in for good measure. Textures galore also make a room "pop". Keep your eyes open when shopping!

Glass table was used for dinette set (for depth perception) along with high backed narrow chairs giving a distict flare.....high-backed chairs in such a small area?...who would have "thunk"? The narrow serving table fit right in against the mirror....like it was meant to be.

Believe it or not....the main picture above the couch was the main catalyst that determined the colors for the furniture/accessories for the main room, etc.. The couch came next then things started to fit into place. Start with a focal point of your room then move out from there. That's when the fun starts....mixing & matching.

Some things I wouldn't have imagined going together but the main room turned out awesome. Coffee table has a unique distict look, cool looking dresser under stairs, one of a kind low-boy designer chair, nice sun-beam end table by couch, & amazing how a checkered pillow can tie things together....not to mention the cool "things" above the tv unit. The old "tired" refrigerator was replaced with a stainless steel unit & that also ties into the main room (worked out well).

What if I told you that "alot" of the furniture/accessories/pictures were "gently used"? Would you believe me? See.....you couldn't tell what was brand new & what was "gently used" could you? That's where the magic comes into play....your "knack" of putting things together. The beauty is thinking that it's all new.....just like what you want all your friends to think. You're so cool!

Did you notice anything being used again? Could you tell? I'm not going to tell you what was re-used but a few things did get relocated/reused. This saved a few more bucks which were then re-channeled towards the purchase of some of the other items. You always gotta think.

I'm trying to show you that you "CAN" put together a room (or rooms) without breaking the bank. What do you think about that? That's what this blog is all about. Doing things yourself & saving $$! Check out some of the other posts. If you see anything your friend(s) would enjoy.....don't be bashful....click the envelope with the arrow on it, at the end of this article & quickly send to a friend. I know........always trying to "save" you time......I try.

All these styles & textures & colors coming together to make a room. You'll have fun! The bedrooms came out great too. Take another look at the video & see how the bedrooms came together. I never would have thought to use "that" for a tv stand. Smart dresser & who's idea was it to use black & white pictures with crisp black frames? Great look (in the right place). Take these ideas & what's on the videos & use to your heart's content.

Click here if you need to get some video painting tips for your next painting project

Stage On!

VideoJoeKnows

Sunday, November 8, 2009

Video Content...Shoe Repair....using Liquid Nails?

Shoe Repair....using Liquid Nails? You betcha! Liquid nails will repair just about anything....even shoes. Liquid nails will bond to pretty much any surface. What's liquid nails you ask?

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Liquid nails will practically repair anything. Liquid nails will bond to most surfaces. Liquid nails comes in different formulas so go to the hardware store & check it out. Read the labels & see which liquid nails caulking tube is the right one for your project. The "original formula" liquid nails is the one I generally use for most of my general repairs. My tennis shoe sole was coming off, the other day, so I thought I would use liquid nails for "the shoe sole repair". I thought....what would it hurt? So I picked up the liquid nails & away I went!

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Liquid nails is kind of sticky when it gets on your fingers, hands, etc.. So...if you have to use your finger, I find that if I wet my finger before I smooth it out, it doesn't get on me as much. Liquid nails is also pretty smelly as it's drying so be in a well ventilated area. Liquid nails doesn't cost very much per tube so I pick one up every once in awhile, just in case.

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Even if you don't have a pair of tennis shoes to repair, keep a couple of tubes of liquid nails around as you never know when you'll need it. Put your thinking cap on & I think you'll find plenty of projects & repairs you can use liquid nails on. It works wonders......you'll see!

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Caulk On!

VideoJoeKnows


Thursday, November 5, 2009

Mixing joint compound....with a potato masher? (video content)

Mixing joint compound.....with a potato masher? Sure! Mixing joint compound with a potato masher is easy. You can buy the more expensive mixing handle (to use on your electric drill) for mixing up the joint compound but I'm trying to save you money on your project. That's why I want you to use a "potato masher"! What am I talking about? Watch this:

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That is what I want you to use when mixing up your joint compound. You can find these babies in the drywall section of your local hardware store. If you don't see them, ask. Pretty cool huh? It will also give you a good little workout:

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If you purchase the joint compound in "box form", you can still mix up the joint compound with a potato masher. Simply open the cardboard box & dump the joint compound into an empty "clean" bucket, add a "dash" of water & away you go! Now you need to do something to the joint compound, periodically during the day.....and that's to mix up the joint compound (every once in awhile). You get to use the potao masher again!

Keep an eye on the consistency of the joint compound & if it looks like you need to add a "drop" of water to it, then add a little water. Just make sure you don't add too much or the joint compound will get "soupy" & that's "not" what you want. There's "two" instructional videos in this next bit so make sure you don't miss one.

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What you want is a nice mixture to your joint compound.....not to dry & not too wet. Check it out below:

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If you mix up an entire bucket of joint compound with the potato masher, you may decide that you want to put the potato masher somewhere else (while you fill up your drywall pan or whatever). You want to be aware that you shouldn't just lay the masher on the ground until you need it again, as the joint compound will dry on the masher.

**News Flash** You do "not" want to reuse the potato masher in your joint compound when the joint compound dries on the masher, as the dry joint compound may break off (or flake off) into your already mixed up joint compound. These dry "crusties" will then be transferred to your walls making nice little "lines" (ugh) in your finish coats then you have to stop & pick them out & re-go-over these areas (not fun). I've prepared another helpful instructional video for you to see how to prevent this from happening:

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The joint compound is meant to be applied (& dried) on your walls & not on your potato masher. You don't want to have to go back & forth outside to wash the potato masher off with a hose when a bucket of water will do just nicely....try washing off a potato masher with dried joint compound with a hose (not fun).....way easier with a bucket of water as you saw. Keep your potato masher clean at all costs.

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I think you get the drift on how nice this potato masher works on mixing up joint compound & the importance of keeping it clean. Do you have a friend who would benefit from reading this post & viewing these instructional videos? If so, click on the envelope with the arrow on it, at the bottom of this post. Try it out!

Click here to get some free "video" painting tips for your next drywall patch

Mix On!

VideoJoeKnows

Sunday, November 1, 2009

Wrapping up those pesky extension cords (video content)

Wrapping up those pesky extension cords.....the proper way. Are you having trouble wrapping up your extension cords the new fangled way? You've seen other people wrap up their extension cords this new way but you still haven't got it down. I think you should check out this post as I will teach you, once & for all, how to wrap up those pesky extension cords.

I will actually go "down under" to show you how to wrap up your extension cords. That's right, I am going to get under the video camera & show you the proper way to wrap up those extension cords.....that way my left is your left & my right is your right. Trust me, you will "see & understand" the complete process of wrapping up your extension cords.........once you view these instructional videos.

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That wasn't so bad was it? Review the video again if you need to. Look at this next video clip & tell me what you think of your "handy work":

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Here's another instructional video showing you how to wrap up your extension cords another way. It's actually the same way other than doubling up the extension cord before wrapping up the extension cord thereby making the overall wrapped up extension cord way shorter. It will store easier this way too. Check it out:

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If you still feel a little unsure about how to wrap your extension cord this "different way"........then here's what you need to do: Watch the videos again, go out to your garage & untangle your extension cords & try wrapping the extension cord(s) up just like you saw me do. If you get stuck, try again. You'll never learn unless you try.......Murphy's Law. You "will" get the hang of it, just stick with it.

Share this post with a friend. It won't take you long. Just go to the bottom of this post & click on the envelope with the arrow on it. Your friend will be glad you did!

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Wrap On!

VideoJoeKnows


Saturday, October 31, 2009

"New Age Way" to wrap & unwrap your extension cords (video content)

"New Age Way" to wrap & unwrap your extension cords. Do you want to "know" how to do "it"? Well....it's really not a "new age way" but it might be for you. Most professional construction workers "have" to wrap up their extension cords this way (if they're using a 10 gauge or 12 gauge extension cord). It makes it way easier to wrap & unwrap extension cords that's for sure. Here's the standard way to unwrap an extension cord.....& tell me if this has ever happened to you:

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Believe it or not, there is a better way to wrap up your extension cords so that when you unwrap your extension cords......this (getting tangles) won't happen to you. It's what I call the "new age way". I only call it that because if you don't know how to wrap & unwrap an extension cord this way....then it "IS" a new age way "for you". I think you should have options when it comes to doing things so here's your "option" when it comes to wrapping & unwrapping your extension cords.

* Check out this instructional video where it shows you how to unwrap your extension cords this "new age way". Watch closely.

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Pretty cool huh? Basically you wrap up your extension cord in a series of slip knots so that when you unwrap the extension cord, the extension cord will easily pull out, without tangling up. There is a trick in knowing how to properly wrap & unwrap your extension cords but first I want to show you another short video on unwrapping an extension cord but this time I will go slower OK?

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Maybe you've heard about wrapping & unwrapping extension cords this way but you tried it once & you couldn't figure out how to "undo" the extension cord properly so you figured it was a hassle & you'd just wrap up your extension cords the old fashioned way. I want to show you where you might have gone wrong:

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Are you ready to see how to wrap the extension cord up the new & improved way (to you)? Here you go:

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There's also (here's the 2nd way) a way to make the extension cord shorter....when wrapping it up. This works great for 50 ft. & 100 ft. extension cords. Make sure, when you're ready to unwrap the extension cord, you unwrap the extension cord from the "right" end. It definitely makes a difference which "end" you try to unwrap at....maybe that's what you were having troubles with from before? Check it out:

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Now you're "in-the-know". If you decide you still want to wrap up your extension cords the old "standard way"....it's cool. At least you know you now have options on wrapping up your extension cords. If you are still a little unsure about how to go about & wrap up your extension cords this way....don't fret (since my right hand is your left & my left is your right, you might run into difficulties....I know I did when I was first taught). I had to stand side by side another guy so he could show me then I finally got it right.

If this is the case, I have prepared another instructional video article/post that's just for you. I actually get under the camera & show you exactly what to do.......that way my left is your left & my right is your right. I have titled it "Wrapping up those pesky extension cords". Try it out!

Click here to get some cool instructional video tips for your next painting project

Wrap On!

VideoJoeKnows

Tips to roll & unroll 50 ft. extension cords (instructional video)

Tips for rolling & unrolling your 50 ft. extension cords....these tips will be useful. The standard way to unroll a 50 ft. extension cord is to untie the end of the cord & lay the rest of the extension cord on the floor & start pulling the extension cord out to unroll the rest of the 50 ft. extension cord. Sometimes you get lucky....by that I mean you can sometimes unroll the entire extension cord without tangling the cord all up. More times than not though, the extension cord has a mind of its own & "wants" to tangle up just to get you mad.

* Check out this instructional video *

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The 50 ft. extension cord can easily tangle when you start to unroll it (as you just saw). You've got to be careful when unrolling a 50 ft. extension cord or the same thing will (& can) happen to you. There's got to be a better way to unroll your 50 ft. extension cords....and there is. Hold on to the entire cord & start unrolling the extension cord right off of your hand, one loop at a time. Walk the extension cord on out, one loop at a time. You will find this is a much easier & faster way to unroll your 50 ft. extension cords (or 100 ft. extension cords).

* Check out this instructional video (good video content) *

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When you want to roll your 50 ft. extension cords back up (or 100 ft. extension cords)....there's a right way & a wrong way to do this too......did you know that? If you want to roll the extension cord back up the standard way, start with the "female" end of the extension cord. Roll the extension cord on your arm making sure to unroll (& unravel) all of the twisted/kinked areas as you go.....this is an important step! (this will make the extension cord easier to unroll & reuse the next time you need to roll out your extension cord). Leave a little bit of the 50 ft. extension cord unrolled (at the end), then wrap this around the rolled up extension cord & tie off. When you are ready to unroll your 50 ft. extension cord again, untie the cord (from the male end), plug the male end to the wall then "walk out" the extension cord, loop by loop (as previously explained above). That's it.

* Check out this instructional video & see what I mean *

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I've touched on the "standard ways" to roll & unroll your 50 ft. &/or 100 ft. extenison cords but........there is a "better" way. Do you want to learn a "New Age Way" to roll & unroll your extension cords? I hope your answer is "yes". See my article/post titled "New Age Way" to wrap & unwrap your extension cords. This will give you other options that may come in useful to you...or a friend. You might find the "instructional videos" helpful....or at least interesting! Read it, see it, try it, "know it".

Click here on how to get some free instructional video tips for your next painting project

Roll On!

VideoJoeKnows

Tuesday, October 27, 2009

Dry Wall Repair....tools needed for the "mud"

Dry Wall Repair........"what tools do I need to install the mud?" I'm glad you asked that question. You don't need too many tools to repair dry wall. Hey.... "don't forget" to check out the instructional videos, at the bottom of this post, for visual examples of the tools you will need (I think you will find these videos helpful/lots of video content). I will now give you a "shopping list" of the tools required for your dry wall repair(s)......as follows:

* You will definitely need a dry wall pan, for your dry wall repair. A plastic dry wall pan is sufficient & less costly than a metal dry wall pan & if you decide that dry wall repair is up your alley for a part time (or full time) job, then you will want to graduate to a metal dry wall pan.

* Purchasing a variety of dry wall "knives" is a must, for your dry wall repair(s). I'm talking the dry wall "knives" that you will be spreading the mud with. These knives look like large putty knives. The hardware store has two grades of metal dry wall knives with one grade being less costly than the other. Stick with the less expensive grade as they will work just as well as the others. If you end up deciding you will be doing alot of dry wall repairing in the future (or now), you might want to invest in the more expensive grade knives.

* For your dry wall repair, I recommend applying the paper tape or the webbing tape with a 4" knife. Once you get the hang of applying the mud to the wall, you may want to start using a 6" knife which will apply more mud & save you a little time. Just make sure you get good with the 4" dry wall knife first....OK?

* If you decide to use quickset mud for your dry wall repair, I recommend using a 3" knife to mix up the quickset in your dry wall pan. A 3" knife comes in handy for all sorts of small areas (when applying dry wall mud) so it's a good idea to have one of these around.

* For floating out your final dry wall repair coat of mud, I recommend using a 10" knife. This knife's shape looks a little different than the other knives (as mentioned above) but this knife works great for bridging out the dry wall mud & blending the new mud into the existing wall. You just can't do this with the 6" knife & get a good finish to your dry wall repair (depending how big you dry wall repair area is). If your dry wall repair area is very small like a little hole in the wall or one open seam to cover, then you "might" be able to get by with the 6" knife but I would still recommend having a 10" knife around (just in case).

* The hardware store does carry an 8" knife but you can achieve the same results by using the 6" knife first & finishing off your dry wall repair with the 10" knife in lieu of an 8" knife (I didn't want you to have to buy every size of knife out there.....my word!). They also carry a 12" knife & a 14" knife (for applying skiptrowel texture,wiping down spray texture knockdown,etc. but we're talking dry wall repairs here so I didn't want you to have to break the bank when picking up the needed dry wall tools....capeche?)

* I also carry an empty large plastic water bottle in my arsenol, for using to pour water in my dry wall pan when mixing up dry quickset material for my dry wall repairs. It certainly comes in handy. I encourage you to carry one as well. It beats filling your pan with water at the kitchen or bathroom sink thinking you won't make a mess (when mixing up quickset) but please don't do this as you "will" make a mess.......Murphy's Law.

* News Flash * Check out the instructional videos at the end of this post. Lots of good video content!

* When purchasing "knives" for your dry wall repair, I would stress to you "not" to think you can do your dry wall repairs with the plastic knives you will see for sale at the hardware store. You may think they will work but they really don't work very well, especially if you are applying quickset material to your dry wall repair, as your plastic knives will flex more than you want them to, leaving extra mud on the wall in certain areas thereby creating small mounds that may show up when you paint your dry wall repairs. Buyer beware!

* A hand held sanding "paddle" is a must before & after installing your final coat of mud to your dry wall repair area. This helps blend your dry wall repair into the existing wall. This type of sanding "paddle" is easy to use, has a handle on it, & you can change the sand paper on it whenever you need to. It's a plastic unit & very inexpensive. This works great for small dry wall repairs. Don't forget the sand paper!

* Oh......a pair of gloves come in handy too....when completing your dry wall repairs. I usually get the ones that have rubber on the hand area & cotton on the top part or you can use full cotton gloves. It minimizes the amount of mud you will get on your hands when you're working on your dry wall repair. Repairs to your dry wall seem easier to complete when wearing a pair of gloves. Of course you don't need gloves....just a thought.

That's about it. See....you won't need too many tools for your dry wall repair(s). If you think of anything else you may need....get it. This article/post is for you to start using your mind & thinking about your dry wall repair project(s) before starting them. Make your list of materials needed.....think about what tools you need & have them available.....& be ready for your dry wall repair projects......or any other project for that matter. Hope this helps.

If you have a friend who you think may benefit from reading this post & seeing the instructional videos, please click on the little envelope (with the arrow on it) at the end of this post. It's easy to do & your friend might just thank you.

Click here to get some video painting tips for your drywall repair

Patch On!

VideoJoeKnows
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Saturday, October 24, 2009

Dry Wall Repair....what tools do I need?

Dry wall repair....what tools do I need? It depends what "kind" of dry wall repairs you will be doing. Will you be installing the actual dry wall for your dry wall repair or will you be installing the dry wall mud for your dry wall repair? Different dry wall repairs....different dry wall tools.

* To actually install the dry wall "board" material, for your dry wall repairs, you will need the following:

* Cordless electric drill. If you are installing the dry wall board for your drywall repair & you will be installing "screws" then you need an electric cordless drill. You can use a regular drill if you want. Or you can use a "screw gun" that is specially designed to install drywall screws for your drywall repair.

* Dry wall hammer (for installing dry wall nails). This is a specially designed hammer that has a rounded tapered head for installing dry wall nails (if you are going to install your dry wall with nails instead of screws....I recommend installing screws though). When installing the nails, you want to hit the nails in flush with the dry wall then one more hit after that & that will put a round indented circle into the surrounding dry wall around the nail head. This will give enough room for the dry wall mud to properly cover over. You don't really need this kind of hammer for installing your dry wall repair though. Screws should work fine....& better.

* Tape measure & pencil. Generally a 25-30 foot tape measure works well & a carpenter's pencil works better than a regular pencil.

* Dry wall knife: make sure you have extra dry wall blades as you always want to keep a sharp blade in your knife. Get the retractable knife blade so when you're not using the knife, you can retract the blade....for safety purposes.

* Keyhole saw. Better known as a dry wall saw but it's the little hand held saw not the big saw. You'll use this to cut out for the electrical outlets or switch boxes or to cut curves with,etc.. Good to have around for all your dry wall repairs.

* T-square to cut your dry wall with. It's a "big" t-square (made specially to cut dry wall) that will cut up to 4 feet long. You could also use a level as a straight edge & cut with that. It helps to have straight lines for your dry wall repair(s).

* Dry wall rasp. It shaves off the edges of the dry wall once you cut it...for nice straight edges. If your dry wall barely doesn't fit (once you've cut it), you can shave off the edge(s) easily with this rasp rather than using your dry wall knife (that's an accident ready to happen).

That's about all you'll need, tool wise, to install the dry wall for your dry wall repairs. I'll talk about what tools you will need to use (for your dry wall repairs) for installing the dry wall mud next time. See you then!

Click here for some video tips on painting your dry wall repair

Patch On!

VideoJoeKnows

Drywall Fix.......popped nail/screw heads

Drywall Fix......popped nail/screw heads. What now? There are some does & don'ts for this particular drywall fix. Can you fix this drywall problem....easily? Yes & no.....if you don't do it right. Here's the does & don'ts:

* Don't: Do not think you can simply put some spackle over the popped heads for this drywall fix. The nail/screw head is already loose. What makes you think that your spackle will permanently solve this drywall fix? The same thing will happen later on....think about it.

* Do: For this drywall fix, locate the visible head, determine if the head is a nail head or screw head. If it's a nail head, take a nail set & sink the nail into the stud just a little bit (in order to make the nail head tight into the wood). If it's a screw head, remove some of the sheetrock mud & tighten down this screw. This is a good technique for this type of drywall fix.

* Don't: For this drywall fix, do not think that you can just tap the top of the nail in a little bit & think that it's tight into the wood. In most cases, the nail will still be "loose". It's just going to be below the surface a little that's all. Once you put spackle over this (or whatever you choose to do for the drywall fix), the nail will magically reappear later on down the road, because the nail is still loose & moving around. Trust me...the nail will poke it's crafty little head up again in the future. Maybe not right away but soon enough. You've got to use a nail set for these pesky nails OK?

* Do: To continue the drywall fix, install a sheetrock screw (use the "coarse" threaded ones...if you are going into a wood wall) above & below the nail head location. This will "snug" up the drywall wall area above & below the previous loose nail/screw. Install the screw so the head of the screw does not break the drywall skin. If it does break the skin, install another screw & make sure this one sinks tight & not breaking the drywall face but yet down far enough so that you can patch over it will your drywall fix material.

* Don't: For this drywall fix, I would "encourage" (& I mean strongly encourage) you "NOT" to use drywall nails above & below the visible loose nail/screw head. Install screws not nails for the drywall fix (as previously explained above). Several things could occur if you use nails to fix the drywall....all being bad! You could crack the other side of the wall while banging the nail in (if the stud is rock hard). You could expose more nail/screw heads just by banging the new drywall nails in thereby causing more damage to your wall. You could dislodge your favorite piece of artwork (I didn't think that would happen......too bad). You could hit a knot in the existing stud causing a richochete motion in the wall causing other unknown damage or even cracking the stucco on the other side of the wall (if there is stucco......I didn't know stucco could crack so easily). You could knock the clock off the other side of the wall (& it was your Mom's favorite clock.....she told you to be careful too...didn't she....& you said you would, ugh). You could wake up the baby that was soundly sleeping in the other room.....you know the baby that it took hours to finally get to go to sleep?....that one (I won't have to tell you if that's a bad thing). And the list goes on. Whatever could happen.....will happen.....cuz it's you! Everything happens to you remember? I don't usually go on this long with one thought but I wanted you to get the "full monty" of what I am telling you here. Screws are your friends. Remember that!

* Don't: For this drywall fix, you better not think you have to call in someone & pay them to complete this drywall fix for you. You can do this. Re-read this article/post & get to work. If you have any questions, don't be bashful about leaving a comment for me at the bottom of this post OK?

* Now, to complete your drywall fix..........put a little repair material over those babies, dab a little touch up paint on (two coats now) & your drywall fix will be history.

* Do: Sit back, put your feet up & relax a little. You just did a drywall fix all by yourself....& it turned out pretty good too. You are now "in the know" & "no one" can take "that" away from you.

Want to get some painting tips on how to paint your drywall fix? Click here then!

Fix On!

VideoJoeKnows

Repairing Drywall....made easy

Repairing drywall....made easy. Yes, you can do this. Repairing drywall isn't like rocket science but there are a few things you need to "know" . Repairing your drywall can be easy & turn out great or it can be your worst nightmare. Here's what you need to "know" :

* When repairing drywall, it's important to take your time & do it right. Make sure you carefully cut out the damaged sheetrock/drywall repair area. Take note that you may not be able to see everything inside the existing wall before repairing the drywall & removing the damaged drywall......like existing wiring, plumbing pipes, telephone lines, etc..

* When starting your repairing drywall project, can you imagine if you cut an existing electrical wire or a water line? Your little repairing drywall project now becomes something bigger than you could've ever imagined....especially if you don't "know" anything about repairing electrical wiring or have to call in a plumbing professional to clean up your "mess" you may have just caused yourself, not to mention the water damage, etc., etc..

* Even if you do "know" how to complete electrical & plumbing repairs, that wasn't part of the repairing drywall project, now was it? This was suppose to be a quick easy job that you could complete in a very swift turn-around. It wasn't suppose to cause "major surgery"! This was a repairing drywall project...nothing more....nothing less.

* This is why some do-it-yourselfers are gun shy when it comes to repairing drywall. Yes, there are horror stories out there but they are out there for you to learn from, not add to! It's not a race when you are removing the sheetrock. Take your time. It will "save" you time in the long run...in more ways than one....$$$.

* There's a "knack" to repairing drywall. Slowly cut the damaged drywall to be removed. Take out a square area of sheetrock & shine a light inside the wall, to see what's inside, before cutting anymore drywall. This process takes a little longer than making all of your cuts at the same time then pulling the drywall down, but you'll be glad you did.

* Using a dull sheetrock saw, when repairing drywall, is also a good idea, in case you nick an electrical wire, etc.. You may not go all the way through the outside sheathing of the romex wiring before "feeling it" with a dull sheetrock saw. Do not saw too fast & try to let your hands "feel" for the unforseen. You are now a "ninja".

* You also will want to be very careful when repairing drywall, if you are using an electric sawzall, as it is difficult to know if you are cutting any unwanted "creatures" in the wall.....especially if you are cutting down next to an existing wood stud in the wall....as you can easily cut anything in the way since there is no "give" in electrical wires or plumbing lines. You can cut through these like "butter" without even knowing it.

* When repairing drywall, if you are needing to install wood backing in the existing wall, make sure you measure the existing wood studs. A "new" standard wood 2x4 stud is normally 3 1/2" wide (sometimes just a hair larger than this) when purchased, as most new 2x4 studs are still wet & have not cured yet. All of this moisture in the new studs give the new "wood" a tendency to expand just a bit than when the studs are dry & cured, since they have a tendency to shrink.

* Depending on how old your existing 2x4 studs are, will determine their actual size at the time of repairing your drywall. I've seen some wood studs as small as 3 5/16" overall. Most of the average size studs I've seen, have been a little less than 3 1/2" & sometimes 3 3/8". Do you see where I'm going with this?

* If you are not watching it, you may unknowingly "cram" a new 3 1/2" wood stud in an existing wall cavity that is 3 3/8" maybe smaller (depending on how old the home is). If you do this, when repairing the drywall, your new wood stud backing may have a tendency to stick out thereby making your same size drywall poke out further than the existing drywall. Now you have a bump in the wall....literally. If it doesn't bump out, you may have just cracked the other side of your wall or popped some nails...what do you think about that?

* Before repairing the drywall, it may be necessary to "shave" the new wood stud backing down, so it will fit in the wall. See what I mean? This may take a little bit of work, as you need to "rip" down the side of the new wood backing with a skilsaw, but this separates the men from the boys!

**News Flash** Here's the crux of the "story" right here. Pay attention now:

* Spending extra time on repairing your drywall patch, should be foremost in your mind, as what you are trying to achieve is to match the existing conditions so you can't see the patch when you get done. Once you have achieved this "thought process", the rest falls into place. This is what alot of do-it-yourselfers forget yet "this" (thought process) is the most important part of the project!

* When repairing drywall, make sure you use the proper sheetrock size for your replacement "patch". Once you cut & remove the damaged drywall, it can sometimes be difficult to tell what the actual size of the drywall is. Sometimes 1/2" sheetrock looks & measures out to be 5/8" sheetrock if you are measuring the side where you have just cut & removed from...but if you carefully press down the cut area, you may see that the actual size is different than what you "thought" you "were" going to use.

* Now......double check your measurement so you purchase & install the proper size drywall to your repairing area as your new drywall patch area does not want to extend out further than the existing surrounding wall area. Measure twice.....buy & install the right material once!

That's it for this time. Read this post a few times & get it "lodged" into your head before tackling your repairing drywall project. You'll be glad you did. Now you "know" .

Here's some great tips for painting your drywall repair area

Patch On!

VideoJoeKnows

Patching Drywall....you can do it!

Patching Drywall....you CAN do it! Patching drywall is easy....once you know the steps. Patching your drywall also requires using the proper materials....that is, if you're patching the drywall area the same day. Do you have 3 days for patching your drywall? Neither do I! That's why it's important to use the right materials.

I recommend using webbing tape for patching your drywall. This tape has an adhesive on the back of it so it will stick to the wall without using sheetrock mud first....cool! Use the webbing tape over the open seams or hole areas. Apply it, wipe it down, & you're ready to install the sheetrock mud. That's it.

Patching drywall requires using the right sheetrock mud (for a one day turn-a-round). The product to use is called "quickset" because it sets up "quick". It's a non-shrinking material when it dries so this makes patching drywall a snap because you can do your entire patch "the same day".

The quickset doesn't take very long to dry so you can apply the next coat soon after the first coat dries. You can purchase the quickset in different "minute" increments at the store. I would suggest you use something like 30 minute mud. It comes in a dry form so look for the bags of product at the store. If you have any questions, talk to your local hardware associate.

Apply 2 coats of quickset to your patching drywall area. The first coat will only take a few minutes to harden up enough to then put on the next coat. You don't have to wait (between coats) a full 30 minutes....just until the material is hard enough that you can scrape off the excess ridges before applying your next coat. 30 minutes (if you use the "30 Easy Sand Material") is how long the material will dry 100% but you can go over it before 30 minutes, as explained.

You can use 20 minute, 45 minute, 90 minute, or even 5 minute quickset if you want. I was just suggesting 30 minute for a happy medium is all. They're all good & patching drywall can still be accomplished in a day (just a bit of a time difference depending on what minute material you decide to use).

Once you have applied the 2 coats of quickset to your patching drywall area, you will now use a different mud to complete your project. Yes, you now have to apply one more coat of material. A third coat as it were. You will use a premixed wet mud material. You can either use "all purpose" or "topping" material you'll find at your local hardware store. This will be used for your 3rd coat (better known as the skim coat).

Apply a thin layer of this material over your patching drywall area. Skim over the area making the overall patching drywall area larger so you can bridge this material further over into your existing wall area.

You need to use this product over your quickset so the paint will cover properly, at your patching drywall area, or your patch will stand out & it will look like you didn't know what you were doing. Quickset material is very pourous & will not take paint very good (meaning....your patch will show!) Now you know better don't you?

You have now completed your patching drywall lesson, other than sanding, & you can do that just before you paint your patching drywall area. Don't be afraid to use quickset as it's easy to use. It takes just a bit longer since you have to mix it up with water but it's not a problem. Plus the remaining quickset you don't use, will store forever....pretty much, since it's in the dry form. Next time you need it, whip it out, mix it up, & you're ready to go. A little bit goes a long way.

Patching drywall yourself just takes a little knack & you'll just keep getting better & better the more patches you do. You'll always learn more the next time you do a patch on your drywall so get started. It will give you a sense of accomplishment plus you will save some money too, since you won't have to call in the pros. A who couldn't use some extra cash right about now?

Patching drywall is a fun project. You can do it. Step in & get your feet wet!

Click here for some great tips on painting your sheetrock patch

Patch On!

VideoJoeKnows

Sheetrock Repair....what tape do I use?

Sheetrock Repair....what tape do I use? Does it really matter what tape I use to do a sheetrock repair? It depends on how many sheetrock repairs you will be making. If you are doing alot of little sheetrock repairs, I would suggest using a webbing tape. Here's another reason:

Webbing tape comes with an adhesive on the back of it. You simply put the webbing tape on your sheetrock repair area & you are ready to apply the sheetrock mud. It's a pretty simple process & one that keeps your hands clean from the sheetrock mud you will be applying as you don't put any mud on until you have completed putting on the webbing tape.

I usually put the tape on then use a 4" sheetrock putty knife to cut the end of the tape with. Unroll & put the tape on your sheetrock repair area then place your 4" knife on the tape end. Hold the remaining roll of tape at a 45 degree angle & quickly "rip" it off. This may take you a couple of times to master but you'll get the hang of it. Now gently wipe down the applied tape with your knife. That's it.

If you have an open seam area at your sheetrock repair (I'm talking a fairly large open seam), you might want to think about applying 2 overlapping layers of the webbing tape. This will give it a little more support than just one layer. Once you apply the sheetrock mud to the sheetrock repair area, the mud will penetrate through the little holes of the webbing tape & will make a good bond to this area.

You can even patch over large sheetrock repair areas like an unused light switch or old electrical plug location. You will want to put several overlapping layers of webbing tape here. Apply the sheetrock mud & presto. Make sure you apply at least two coats of mud over this sheetrock repair area to get a great bond, then apply a final thin layer of sheetrock mud over that (called a skim coat).

Read my article/post: "Drywall patch.....what material do I use" for installing "quickset" to your patch areas (as a suggestion). For all your sheetrock repairs, webbing tape is the way to go, hands down.

Yeah, you can use paper tape for your sheetrock repairs. You have to install the mud first then apply the tape then wipe the tape down. The trick here is making sure you have applied enough sheetrock mud to your sheetrock repair area before applying the tape, as you do not want any air bubbles under the tape or your sheetrock repair area will have ripples in it when you are done.

You may get some sheetrock mud on your hands while doing the paper tape process & once this happens, it starts getting worse (depending on how many sheetrock repair areas you will be completing). I like to keep my hands clean, when completing sheetrock repairs, & don't like to stop & start, stop & start between tape, mud, tape, mud, if you know what I mean.

The webbing tape will accomplish the same thing but cleaner & in some cases, you will get a stronger sheetrock repair. Paper tape also will not properly cover large sheetrock repair areas like old electrical box locations or gapping holes in your sheetrock. Now you're seeing what I'm talking about huh? Webbing tape just makes so much more sense for your sheetrock repairs......doesn't it?

Click here for some painting tips to paint your sheetrock repair

Patch On!

VideoJoeKnows

Friday, October 23, 2009

Drywall patch.....what material do I use?

Drywall patch....what material do I use? Good question. When I patch drywall, I use a material product called "quickset". The actual drywall patch material is not called that at the store though.

The reason why you would want to use this drywall patch product (quickset), rather than regular wet style drywall mud, is because wet drywall mud will shrink between coats & the shrinking process lasts all the way through the necessary drying time between coats & it usually takes a day (between coats) for this type of mud to properly dry between coats so you cannot complete your drywall patch project in 1 day (depending on how large your patch is).

The drywall patch material is located near the sheetrock/drywall area & you will see white bags of dry material with different numbers on them ie. 5, 20, 30, 45, & 90. You're looking at the right drywall patch bags. This drywall patch material is a fast drying non-shrinking drywall patch material thus its better known name of "quickset".

The associated number on the bag will tell you how long it will take for the drywall patch material to harden so you can then apply another coat of drywall patch material over it. These numbers mean minutes, so the 5 will mean that is how many minutes (5 minutes) it will take before you can apply another coat,etc..

If you have a smallish drywall patch/hole to cover, I would recommend something like the 30 minute or 45 minute quickset (if this is the first time you will be using the drywall patch product). I myself would generally use the 20 minute drywall patch material/quickset but I've used the product alot & know how it will respond,etc..

This drywall patch material comes in a dry form as you will need to mix the patch material in water before applying it to your wall. Mix the drywall patch material in a drywall pan with a 3" drywall putty knife. Start out with only putting a little of the drywall patch material in your pan to start off with (you don't want to mix up too much the first couple of times until you get use to this drywall patch material & how it goes on the wall,etc.).

It's also important to realize that if you get the drywall patch material that says 30 on it (for example), that doesn't mean you have 30 minutes to apply the drywall patch material to your wall. You will only have a certain amount of time to apply this drywall patch material to your wall patch. Mix up a little & you will see what I mean.

I would say you have maybe 6 or 7 minutes to apply the product to your wall (this is apprx. as the time may differ from batch to batch you mix up depending on how much water you put in). It also depends on how much you mix up in your pan & how big your drywall patch areas are. The quicker you put it on the wall, the better.

Use this drywall patch material for your taping & first coat of topping only. You do not want to apply your skin/skim coat (last coat) with this drywall patch product. I would recommend you using the regular mud, all purpose or topping sheetrock mud for your skim coat.

You want to apply a thin layer (skim coat) of "all purpose" or "topping" mud over your drywall patch material at your drywall patch on the wall. Your all purpose &/or topping mud are the "wet" drywall mud products you will find at the hardware store near the sheetrock/drywall materials area.

It's important to realize that no matter how smooth you apply the drywall patch material (quickset), you do NOT want to paint over it. If that's the only thing you remember from this article/post, you can put a gold star by your name. The reason is this:

The drywall patch material (quickset) is a very pourous material & when it dries, it will never accept paint the same as everything else on your wall. You will see the drywall patch & it will stick out like a sore thumb, no matter how smooth of a job you did.

That's why you have to apply the "all purpose" or "topping" drywall material (better known as mud) over the drywall patch material (quickset) in order for your paint to blend in to the rest of the paint on your wall(s). You call this last coat the skim coat because it's a very thin layer applied over the topping layer.

So let's review: You will use three layers of mud to your drywall patch. The first layer is the tape layer...that is the first coat of drywall patch material you will be using for your patch (to put your tape on with). Then you will apply a topping coat using the drywall patch material for this coat....this is the overall 2nd coat. You then will apply a skim coat (last of 3 coats) using wet all purpose or topping mud. So you will have 3 coats of mud ie. tape, top, & skim for a total of 3.

Try this drywall patch material & I think you will find it easier to patch your drywall patches!

Click here to get some free video painting tips for your drywall patch

Patch On!

VideoJoeKnows