Mixing joint compound....with a potato masher? (video content)

Mixing joint compound.....with a potato masher? Sure! Mixing joint compound with a potato masher is easy. You can buy the more expensive mixing handle (to use on your electric drill) for mixing up the joint compound but I'm trying to save you money on your project. That's why I want you to use a "potato masher"! What am I talking about? Watch this:

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That is what I want you to use when mixing up your joint compound. You can find these babies in the drywall section of your local hardware store. If you don't see them, ask. Pretty cool huh? It will also give you a good little workout:

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If you purchase the joint compound in "box form", you can still mix up the joint compound with a potato masher. Simply open the cardboard box & dump the joint compound into an empty "clean" bucket, add a "dash" of water & away you go! Now you need to do something to the joint compound, periodically during the day.....and that's to mix up the joint compound (every once in awhile). You get to use the potao masher again!

Keep an eye on the consistency of the joint compound & if it looks like you need to add a "drop" of water to it, then add a little water. Just make sure you don't add too much or the joint compound will get "soupy" & that's "not" what you want. There's "two" instructional videos in this next bit so make sure you don't miss one.

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What you want is a nice mixture to your joint compound.....not to dry & not too wet. Check it out below:

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If you mix up an entire bucket of joint compound with the potato masher, you may decide that you want to put the potato masher somewhere else (while you fill up your drywall pan or whatever). You want to be aware that you shouldn't just lay the masher on the ground until you need it again, as the joint compound will dry on the masher.

**News Flash** You do "not" want to reuse the potato masher in your joint compound when the joint compound dries on the masher, as the dry joint compound may break off (or flake off) into your already mixed up joint compound. These dry "crusties" will then be transferred to your walls making nice little "lines" (ugh) in your finish coats then you have to stop & pick them out & re-go-over these areas (not fun). I've prepared another helpful instructional video for you to see how to prevent this from happening:

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The joint compound is meant to be applied (& dried) on your walls & not on your potato masher. You don't want to have to go back & forth outside to wash the potato masher off with a hose when a bucket of water will do just nicely....try washing off a potato masher with dried joint compound with a hose (not fun).....way easier with a bucket of water as you saw. Keep your potato masher clean at all costs.

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I think you get the drift on how nice this potato masher works on mixing up joint compound & the importance of keeping it clean. Do you have a friend who would benefit from reading this post & viewing these instructional videos? If so, click on the envelope with the arrow on it, at the bottom of this post. Try it out!

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Mix On!

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Dry Wall Repair....tools needed for the "mud"

Dry Wall Repair........"what tools do I need to install the mud?" I'm glad you asked that question. You don't need too many tools to repair dry wall. Hey.... "don't forget" to check out the instructional videos, at the bottom of this post, for visual examples of the tools you will need (I think you will find these videos helpful/lots of video content). I will now give you a "shopping list" of the tools required for your dry wall repair(s)......as follows:

* You will definitely need a dry wall pan, for your dry wall repair. A plastic dry wall pan is sufficient & less costly than a metal dry wall pan & if you decide that dry wall repair is up your alley for a part time (or full time) job, then you will want to graduate to a metal dry wall pan.

* Purchasing a variety of dry wall "knives" is a must, for your dry wall repair(s). I'm talking the dry wall "knives" that you will be spreading the mud with. These knives look like large putty knives. The hardware store has two grades of metal dry wall knives with one grade being less costly than the other. Stick with the less expensive grade as they will work just as well as the others. If you end up deciding you will be doing alot of dry wall repairing in the future (or now), you might want to invest in the more expensive grade knives.

* For your dry wall repair, I recommend applying the paper tape or the webbing tape with a 4" knife. Once you get the hang of applying the mud to the wall, you may want to start using a 6" knife which will apply more mud & save you a little time. Just make sure you get good with the 4" dry wall knife first....OK?

* If you decide to use quickset mud for your dry wall repair, I recommend using a 3" knife to mix up the quickset in your dry wall pan. A 3" knife comes in handy for all sorts of small areas (when applying dry wall mud) so it's a good idea to have one of these around.

* For floating out your final dry wall repair coat of mud, I recommend using a 10" knife. This knife's shape looks a little different than the other knives (as mentioned above) but this knife works great for bridging out the dry wall mud & blending the new mud into the existing wall. You just can't do this with the 6" knife & get a good finish to your dry wall repair (depending how big you dry wall repair area is). If your dry wall repair area is very small like a little hole in the wall or one open seam to cover, then you "might" be able to get by with the 6" knife but I would still recommend having a 10" knife around (just in case).

* The hardware store does carry an 8" knife but you can achieve the same results by using the 6" knife first & finishing off your dry wall repair with the 10" knife in lieu of an 8" knife (I didn't want you to have to buy every size of knife out there.....my word!). They also carry a 12" knife & a 14" knife (for applying skiptrowel texture,wiping down spray texture knockdown,etc. but we're talking dry wall repairs here so I didn't want you to have to break the bank when picking up the needed dry wall tools....capeche?)

* I also carry an empty large plastic water bottle in my arsenol, for using to pour water in my dry wall pan when mixing up dry quickset material for my dry wall repairs. It certainly comes in handy. I encourage you to carry one as well. It beats filling your pan with water at the kitchen or bathroom sink thinking you won't make a mess (when mixing up quickset) but please don't do this as you "will" make a mess.......Murphy's Law.

* News Flash * Check out the instructional videos at the end of this post. Lots of good video content!

* When purchasing "knives" for your dry wall repair, I would stress to you "not" to think you can do your dry wall repairs with the plastic knives you will see for sale at the hardware store. You may think they will work but they really don't work very well, especially if you are applying quickset material to your dry wall repair, as your plastic knives will flex more than you want them to, leaving extra mud on the wall in certain areas thereby creating small mounds that may show up when you paint your dry wall repairs. Buyer beware!

* A hand held sanding "paddle" is a must before & after installing your final coat of mud to your dry wall repair area. This helps blend your dry wall repair into the existing wall. This type of sanding "paddle" is easy to use, has a handle on it, & you can change the sand paper on it whenever you need to. It's a plastic unit & very inexpensive. This works great for small dry wall repairs. Don't forget the sand paper!

* Oh......a pair of gloves come in handy too....when completing your dry wall repairs. I usually get the ones that have rubber on the hand area & cotton on the top part or you can use full cotton gloves. It minimizes the amount of mud you will get on your hands when you're working on your dry wall repair. Repairs to your dry wall seem easier to complete when wearing a pair of gloves. Of course you don't need gloves....just a thought.

That's about it. See....you won't need too many tools for your dry wall repair(s). If you think of anything else you may need....get it. This article/post is for you to start using your mind & thinking about your dry wall repair project(s) before starting them. Make your list of materials needed.....think about what tools you need & have them available.....& be ready for your dry wall repair projects......or any other project for that matter. Hope this helps.

If you have a friend who you think may benefit from reading this post & seeing the instructional videos, please click on the little envelope (with the arrow on it) at the end of this post. It's easy to do & your friend might just thank you.

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Patch On!

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Goof Off Cleaner Remover....what to know

Goof Off Cleaner Remover is a great product (I'm talking the original formula here). Great products don't always mean they work in every circumstance though. Goof Off Cleaner Remover can be the worst thing to use.....if you don't know any better. Goof Off Cleaner Remover can be a life saver or a game breaker. Here's what you "need" to know:

* Goof Off Cleaner Remover can "remove" the existing paint finsh of the wall you are trying to clean. Dab on just a little Goof Off Cleaner Remover to a clean "white" rag. Gently rub the rag on the wall in circular motions being careful not to rub too hard. Try this in a small area first, to see if it will "break down" your soiled spot on the wall.

Be aware of how hard you are rubbing & for how long you have to rub before the spot starts to go away. There's a fine line as to knowing if the Goof Off Cleaner Remover is working to just remove the stain or if the Goof Off Cleaner Remover is, in fact, removing the spot as well as removing a portion of the existing paint on your wall.

You will think you have to rub more to get the spot off but you will then see (much to your dismay) that the wall will start feeling a little "sticky". If you feel this happening, that means that you are now removing the paint from the wall. Stop rubbing! You now have created a new mark, one that will "not" go away unless you apply touch up paint to the wall. Not good.

You also do not want to use any other color of rag except white, you know......the red rags you can sometimes get at the store or blue ones,etc.. The Goof Off Cleaner Remover is very powerful "stuff" & sometimes will remove part of the red dye,etc. from the colored rags. Stop & do not use these rags or you'll be in for a BIG surprise!

* Goof Off Cleaner Remover can also remove the pre-finished paint from metal door frames,etc. (the paint you do "not" want removed). The same thing happens here. Rub too long & too hard (on the "mark" you are trying to remove), & you will remove the pre-finished paint & the finish will have a "sticky feel" to it. Have a light touch & know when to stop.

* Goof Off Cleaner Remover will also remove spot stains/paint from carpets. Try squirting a little directly on the stained/soiled area & use a small tooth brush (or cleaning brush) using a circular rubbing action then blot dry with a white rag.

It's important to realize (and most people don't) that once you clean a carpet area with Goof Off Cleaner Remover, new dirt will have a tendency to magically adhere to this same area (almost like a magnet) just from "foot traffic". So hopefully your spot is just a small spot & not a large spot in a traffic area or the spot will reappear sooner than you think.

* Goof Off Cleaner Remover is "very" smelly when you are using it. Be aware of your surroundings & think about this "before" you start working with the Goof Off Cleaner Remover. You're eyes will start burning a bit too (depending on how much of the Goof Off Cleaner Remover you've applied). I'm talking the "original formula" here as I have not tried the "low smell" product as of yet. That might be your answer.

If you are going to be using Goof Off Cleaner Remover in an office environment with people around, you may want to do the work "after-hours", when no one is around, as you do not want any employees/workers complaining about the smell because they will! The smell is "potent" but goes away after awhile.

* Goof Off Cleaner Remover is a great product. Goof Off Cleaner Remover will remove "stuff" you never thought possible. Just be sure that "stuff" is what you want removed.

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