Goof Off Cleaner Remover is a great product (I'm talking the original formula here). Great products don't always mean they work in every circumstance though. Goof Off Cleaner Remover can be the worst thing to use.....if you don't know any better. Goof Off Cleaner Remover can be a life saver or a game breaker. Here's what you "need" to know:
* Goof Off Cleaner Remover can "remove" the existing paint finsh of the wall you are trying to clean. Dab on just a little Goof Off Cleaner Remover to a clean "white" rag. Gently rub the rag on the wall in circular motions being careful not to rub too hard. Try this in a small area first, to see if it will "break down" your soiled spot on the wall.
Be aware of how hard you are rubbing & for how long you have to rub before the spot starts to go away. There's a fine line as to knowing if the Goof Off Cleaner Remover is working to just remove the stain or if the Goof Off Cleaner Remover is, in fact, removing the spot as well as removing a portion of the existing paint on your wall.
You will think you have to rub more to get the spot off but you will then see (much to your dismay) that the wall will start feeling a little "sticky". If you feel this happening, that means that you are now removing the paint from the wall. Stop rubbing! You now have created a new mark, one that will "not" go away unless you apply touch up paint to the wall. Not good.
You also do not want to use any other color of rag except white, you know......the red rags you can sometimes get at the store or blue ones,etc.. The Goof Off Cleaner Remover is very powerful "stuff" & sometimes will remove part of the red dye,etc. from the colored rags. Stop & do not use these rags or you'll be in for a BIG surprise!
* Goof Off Cleaner Remover can also remove the pre-finished paint from metal door frames,etc. (the paint you do "not" want removed). The same thing happens here. Rub too long & too hard (on the "mark" you are trying to remove), & you will remove the pre-finished paint & the finish will have a "sticky feel" to it. Have a light touch & know when to stop.
* Goof Off Cleaner Remover will also remove spot stains/paint from carpets. Try squirting a little directly on the stained/soiled area & use a small tooth brush (or cleaning brush) using a circular rubbing action then blot dry with a white rag.
It's important to realize (and most people don't) that once you clean a carpet area with Goof Off Cleaner Remover, new dirt will have a tendency to magically adhere to this same area (almost like a magnet) just from "foot traffic". So hopefully your spot is just a small spot & not a large spot in a traffic area or the spot will reappear sooner than you think.
* Goof Off Cleaner Remover is "very" smelly when you are using it. Be aware of your surroundings & think about this "before" you start working with the Goof Off Cleaner Remover. You're eyes will start burning a bit too (depending on how much of the Goof Off Cleaner Remover you've applied). I'm talking the "original formula" here as I have not tried the "low smell" product as of yet. That might be your answer.
If you are going to be using Goof Off Cleaner Remover in an office environment with people around, you may want to do the work "after-hours", when no one is around, as you do not want any employees/workers complaining about the smell because they will! The smell is "potent" but goes away after awhile.
* Goof Off Cleaner Remover is a great product. Goof Off Cleaner Remover will remove "stuff" you never thought possible. Just be sure that "stuff" is what you want removed.
Click here to get some cool "free" video painting tips for your next painting project
Paint On!
VideoJoeKnows
Tuesday, October 20, 2009
Thursday, October 15, 2009
Do-It-Yourself Painting....you can do it
Do-it-yourself painting. Are there any do-it-yourself painters out there? Do-it-yourself painting is a good way to save money. There's alot of projects out there that do-it-yourself painters can do. Check out my blog site with over 25 articles on do-it-yourself painting, tips, techniques, etc..
You will find articles like:
* Paint baseboards.....quick & easy
* Painting galvanized sheetmetal flashing.....and gutters
* Repainting interior wood doors....just got easy
* Painting Interior door frames
* Interior/Exterior Painting tips.....questions & comments
* Painting stucco....the right way
* Painting T1-11 siding
* How to caulk like a pro
* Paint Prep can be more important than painting
* Painting tip....pour your paint from the "backside"
* How much paint do I need?
* Tell a friend or make a comment
* Paint paneling....don't do it!
* Paint wall covering...should I do it?
* Smelly paint could "wreck" your next paint project
* Lamb Skin paint roller cover...simply the best in the business
* Change color of your bedroom walls should be easy
* Strain paint....a great idea!
* "Matching the Paint" made easy
* Color match your paint by saving your sheetrock scrap
* Save water when painting a wall.....who knew?
* Spackle or not to spackle....that is the question
* Prime a wall & do it right
* Paint a new wall...you CAN do it!
* Paint a wall like a pro
* Painting a sheetrock/drywall patch
Do-it-yourself painting is easy & fun. Couldn't find what you were looking for? Send me a comment & tell me what you would like for me to write on. I'm here to help. I want you to be a great do-it-yourself painter.
Do-it-yourself painting is not for everyone & not every do-it-yourself painter can tackle every painting job out there. Sometimes it's best to call a professional but check out the above articles on the blog & see how many you can do.
If you have a friend who you think would like to read this "post", please click on "tell a friend" at the bottom of this post so they can become a better do-it-yourself painter. They will thank you for it....& so will I!
Click here on how to get some "free" video painting tips
Paint On!
VideoJoeKnows
You will find articles like:
* Paint baseboards.....quick & easy
* Painting galvanized sheetmetal flashing.....and gutters
* Repainting interior wood doors....just got easy
* Painting Interior door frames
* Interior/Exterior Painting tips.....questions & comments
* Painting stucco....the right way
* Painting T1-11 siding
* How to caulk like a pro
* Paint Prep can be more important than painting
* Painting tip....pour your paint from the "backside"
* How much paint do I need?
* Tell a friend or make a comment
* Paint paneling....don't do it!
* Paint wall covering...should I do it?
* Smelly paint could "wreck" your next paint project
* Lamb Skin paint roller cover...simply the best in the business
* Change color of your bedroom walls should be easy
* Strain paint....a great idea!
* "Matching the Paint" made easy
* Color match your paint by saving your sheetrock scrap
* Save water when painting a wall.....who knew?
* Spackle or not to spackle....that is the question
* Prime a wall & do it right
* Paint a new wall...you CAN do it!
* Paint a wall like a pro
* Painting a sheetrock/drywall patch
Do-it-yourself painting is easy & fun. Couldn't find what you were looking for? Send me a comment & tell me what you would like for me to write on. I'm here to help. I want you to be a great do-it-yourself painter.
Do-it-yourself painting is not for everyone & not every do-it-yourself painter can tackle every painting job out there. Sometimes it's best to call a professional but check out the above articles on the blog & see how many you can do.
If you have a friend who you think would like to read this "post", please click on "tell a friend" at the bottom of this post so they can become a better do-it-yourself painter. They will thank you for it....& so will I!
Click here on how to get some "free" video painting tips
Paint On!
VideoJoeKnows
Tuesday, October 13, 2009
Paint Baseboards....quick & easy
Paint baseboards quick & easy. You don't have to be a pro in order to paint baseboards. Do you have good knees? Then you can paint baseboards. Do you have a steady hand? Then you can paint baseboards. Do you know how to attach masking tape? Then you can paint baseboards. Do you know how to use a caulk gun or can you use a putty knife?....well learn! (just kidding).....then you can paint baseboards. Keep the money in your pocket & do it yourself. Here's what you need to "know":
* Before you paint the baseboards, check to see if they need to be caulked. Make sure your caulk tube has a "small" tip on it as you don't want to apply too much caulking or you will have a mess on your hands.....literally. Caulk all visible "lines". Run a continuous thin bead of caulk at the top of the baseboard & all inside corners then wipe off excess. Check outside corners & apply caulking where needed. Painting your baseboards will come out looking top notch if you have all baseboards caulked & ready to go "before" you apply the paint.
* Before you paint the baseboards, check for any visible nail holes. Run your hand along the base & "feel" for any raised nail heads.....countersink these as needed. Here's where you need to make a decision: do you want to "caulk" the nail holes or do you want to "putty" the nail heads. What's the difference? I'm glad you asked.
* Caulking the nail holes is quicker but the "holes" have a slight tendency to "pucker in" ever so slightly because when you wipe off the caulking with your finger, without knowing it, your finger will have a natural "pushing in effect" on the caulking thus leaving a slight dimple in the nail hole. It's not very drastic so you will need to decide if this will bother you.
* Filling the nail holes with caulking & wiping off the excess with a "putty knife" will increase the amount of excess caulking, no matter how flat it is, and the caulking around the nail hole (on the face of the baseboard) will show once you apply the paint.....the nail hole may have disappeared but the amount of caulking around the nail hole on the face of the baseboard just got bigger. Putting a dab of caulking in the nail hole & wiping off the excess with your finger, is the better way, if you want to caulk the holes.
* The best way to fill the nail holes (but the longest way) is to apply putty over the holes. You will need to let this putty dry, then sand it, before you paint your baseboards. You will then be assured of not seeing any dimpled areas in your baseboard.
* Masking tape (I prefer 2" masking tape)....do you need it? I would only use masking tape at the bottom of the baseboard (if you are painting over hardwood floor, carpet, tile, linoleum, etc.). I would not tape off the top edge of the base where it returns to the wall...this is where "steady hands" come into play as it's much easier to "free-hand" the top edge.
* In some cases, you can paint the top edge of the baseboard the same color as your wall, making it that much easier to repaint your baseboards in the future. Take a look & see if that will work for your project.
* Painting the body of the baseboard requires a "smallish" tapered angled paint brush. Be careful not to apply too much initial paint towards the bottom of the baseboard as you do not want any excess paint to seep/push under the masking tape edge. Apply the paint to the middle section of the baseboard then spread toward the top & bottom of the baseboard with your paint brush. This will help you "cutin" the baseboard at the top & bottom accordingly. When painting the bottom portion of the baseboard, keep your paint brush at a flat "side to side" action rather than angled toward the bottom edge of your baseboards as this will keep excess paint from getting under the masking tape.
* It's good to invest $5 or so for a rubber knee pad (you know the ones used for gardening). This will come in handy & save those knees. I use one all the time. I couldn't live without it.....you'll see!
* Let the paint dry on the masking tape before pulling up the masking tape. Carefully pull the tape up at a 45 degree angle watching to make sure there is no excess paint built up on the tape edge, which may want to pull up some of the paint on the base towards the bottom of the baseboard. Score any of these visible areas before pulling up the masking tape. Roll the tape over itself, creating a ball, so you don't have any wet paint areas showing on the tape (as to prevent getting on your finished floors,etc.).
* Painting new baseboards require 1 coat of primer & 2 coats of finish paint. If the baseboards were purchased pre-primed (this is a good way) then 2 coats of finish paint (spot prime putty areas at nail holes....if you used putty). Repainting baseboards require 1 coat of finish paint (unless you are changing colors...then 2 coats would be preferable).
* Painting baseboards....you can do it. Why not save some money & do it yourself? You always wished you could. Now you can!
Click here on how to get other painting tips for your painting projects
Paint On!
VideoJoeKnows
* Before you paint the baseboards, check to see if they need to be caulked. Make sure your caulk tube has a "small" tip on it as you don't want to apply too much caulking or you will have a mess on your hands.....literally. Caulk all visible "lines". Run a continuous thin bead of caulk at the top of the baseboard & all inside corners then wipe off excess. Check outside corners & apply caulking where needed. Painting your baseboards will come out looking top notch if you have all baseboards caulked & ready to go "before" you apply the paint.
* Before you paint the baseboards, check for any visible nail holes. Run your hand along the base & "feel" for any raised nail heads.....countersink these as needed. Here's where you need to make a decision: do you want to "caulk" the nail holes or do you want to "putty" the nail heads. What's the difference? I'm glad you asked.
* Caulking the nail holes is quicker but the "holes" have a slight tendency to "pucker in" ever so slightly because when you wipe off the caulking with your finger, without knowing it, your finger will have a natural "pushing in effect" on the caulking thus leaving a slight dimple in the nail hole. It's not very drastic so you will need to decide if this will bother you.
* Filling the nail holes with caulking & wiping off the excess with a "putty knife" will increase the amount of excess caulking, no matter how flat it is, and the caulking around the nail hole (on the face of the baseboard) will show once you apply the paint.....the nail hole may have disappeared but the amount of caulking around the nail hole on the face of the baseboard just got bigger. Putting a dab of caulking in the nail hole & wiping off the excess with your finger, is the better way, if you want to caulk the holes.
* The best way to fill the nail holes (but the longest way) is to apply putty over the holes. You will need to let this putty dry, then sand it, before you paint your baseboards. You will then be assured of not seeing any dimpled areas in your baseboard.
* Masking tape (I prefer 2" masking tape)....do you need it? I would only use masking tape at the bottom of the baseboard (if you are painting over hardwood floor, carpet, tile, linoleum, etc.). I would not tape off the top edge of the base where it returns to the wall...this is where "steady hands" come into play as it's much easier to "free-hand" the top edge.
* In some cases, you can paint the top edge of the baseboard the same color as your wall, making it that much easier to repaint your baseboards in the future. Take a look & see if that will work for your project.
* Painting the body of the baseboard requires a "smallish" tapered angled paint brush. Be careful not to apply too much initial paint towards the bottom of the baseboard as you do not want any excess paint to seep/push under the masking tape edge. Apply the paint to the middle section of the baseboard then spread toward the top & bottom of the baseboard with your paint brush. This will help you "cutin" the baseboard at the top & bottom accordingly. When painting the bottom portion of the baseboard, keep your paint brush at a flat "side to side" action rather than angled toward the bottom edge of your baseboards as this will keep excess paint from getting under the masking tape.
* It's good to invest $5 or so for a rubber knee pad (you know the ones used for gardening). This will come in handy & save those knees. I use one all the time. I couldn't live without it.....you'll see!
* Let the paint dry on the masking tape before pulling up the masking tape. Carefully pull the tape up at a 45 degree angle watching to make sure there is no excess paint built up on the tape edge, which may want to pull up some of the paint on the base towards the bottom of the baseboard. Score any of these visible areas before pulling up the masking tape. Roll the tape over itself, creating a ball, so you don't have any wet paint areas showing on the tape (as to prevent getting on your finished floors,etc.).
* Painting new baseboards require 1 coat of primer & 2 coats of finish paint. If the baseboards were purchased pre-primed (this is a good way) then 2 coats of finish paint (spot prime putty areas at nail holes....if you used putty). Repainting baseboards require 1 coat of finish paint (unless you are changing colors...then 2 coats would be preferable).
* Painting baseboards....you can do it. Why not save some money & do it yourself? You always wished you could. Now you can!
Click here on how to get other painting tips for your painting projects
Paint On!
VideoJoeKnows
Painting galvanized sheetmetal flashing...and gutters
Painting galvanized sheetmetal flashing & gutters require a little bit of "prep" work before the painting begins. I know it's not what you wanted to hear but "good prep"...."good paint job". If you paint your galvanized sheetmetal flashings & gutters "before" the proper steps.....then prepare yourself for a shocker. You don't want this to happen to you so here's what you're going to do:
* You will notice that your galvanized sheetmetal flashing(s) &/or gutters has an "oily" substance on it. This oily substance needs to be cleaned off before painting since your paint would vertually "slide off". Use a de-greaser cleaner of some sort. Wipe it on then wipe it off.
* It's now time to apply some vinegar to the galvanized sheetmetal flashings/gutters. Why? Because I said so that's why.....just kidding......this will clean any remaining oils or cleansers that may still be on there but more importantly, the vinegar (believe it or not) will "etch" the surface of the galvanized sheetmetal flashings/gutters thereby letting the primer & paint "stick & adhere" to the clean metal surface......pretty cool huh?
* Now you're ready to apply an exterior grade primer to the sheetmetal flashings/gutters (your "friendly neighborhood" paint store will help you determine what primer is best). One coat of primer will do.
* Applying 2 coats of finish paint to the sheetmetal flashings/gutters is the way to go when finishing your project (oh by the way...use a miniroller where able). And again....your "friendly neighborhood" paint store will be glad to help you decide what paint type & color you may need.....just ask.
* Painting galvanized sheetmetal flashing & gutters can be a "fun" project if......you know the right steps.
* That's it. Sounds like alot of work but the "finish is in the prep" so if you want a great looking outcome to your project then you've got to do your time & follow the right steps. Hey, you can pay a painter to do it or you can do it yourself.....& save.....& it will still look like a pro did it! What could be better?
Click here to get some video painting tips for your next painting project
Paint On!
VideoJoeKnows
* You will notice that your galvanized sheetmetal flashing(s) &/or gutters has an "oily" substance on it. This oily substance needs to be cleaned off before painting since your paint would vertually "slide off". Use a de-greaser cleaner of some sort. Wipe it on then wipe it off.
* It's now time to apply some vinegar to the galvanized sheetmetal flashings/gutters. Why? Because I said so that's why.....just kidding......this will clean any remaining oils or cleansers that may still be on there but more importantly, the vinegar (believe it or not) will "etch" the surface of the galvanized sheetmetal flashings/gutters thereby letting the primer & paint "stick & adhere" to the clean metal surface......pretty cool huh?
* Now you're ready to apply an exterior grade primer to the sheetmetal flashings/gutters (your "friendly neighborhood" paint store will help you determine what primer is best). One coat of primer will do.
* Applying 2 coats of finish paint to the sheetmetal flashings/gutters is the way to go when finishing your project (oh by the way...use a miniroller where able). And again....your "friendly neighborhood" paint store will be glad to help you decide what paint type & color you may need.....just ask.
* Painting galvanized sheetmetal flashing & gutters can be a "fun" project if......you know the right steps.
* That's it. Sounds like alot of work but the "finish is in the prep" so if you want a great looking outcome to your project then you've got to do your time & follow the right steps. Hey, you can pay a painter to do it or you can do it yourself.....& save.....& it will still look like a pro did it! What could be better?
Click here to get some video painting tips for your next painting project
Paint On!
VideoJoeKnows
Sunday, October 11, 2009
Repainting Interior Wood Doors......just got easy
Repainting interior wood doors can be a project you can do.....yes you! It takes a little know-how but I am confident, if you follow the below steps....you will be able to paint like the pros. Repainting interior wood doors yourself can save you lots of $$. Here's the steps:
* Remove the pins from your existing interior wood door & remove the door. Remove the door & take it to the garage. You're going to repaint the door in the garage. You don't want to repaint the wood door in place as you will have difficulty painting around the door hinges & door knob not to mention getting paint on the door jamb on the hinge side, carpet, tile, wall(s), etc..
* Before you repaint the interior wood door, you are going to remove the existing hinges from the door. Be careful as you remove these hinges as you do not want to damage the surrounding painted wood area around the hinges (this happens sometimes). If the hinges are tight on the door (even after removing the screws) take special care on removing them.
* You will also be removing the door knob assembly from the door....note how the door handle comes apart so you can "remember" how it goes back together. Keep all of the door handle parts together so you don't lose any of the pieces.
* Time to set-up your working environment. You can set the door up in two different ways. You can lean the door against a wall & put wood blocks under the bottom edge to keep the bottom of the door up off of the floor or.... you can get two sawhorses then...put two 3" long screws in the top of the door & at the bottom of the door (towards both ends/letting each screw stick out about 1 1/2") & set the door flat between each sawhorse letting the screws set on the sawhorses....now you can flip the door over each time without damaging your paint job.
* I prefer laying the door flat as you can control the sanding & repainting of the door better then painting up & down strokes evenly when leaning the door up against a wall....make sense? You might have to move some stuff around in your garage so you have enough room but it will be well worth it. Ready for the next step?
* It's now time to take some "fine" sandpaper & lightly sand the door before repainting it. This will put some "etch" marks in the door & make the new paint stick better. It will also remove any raised wood grain areas or soften any "bits" on the existing paint finish. Run your hand down the door when sanding has been completed & spot sand any other areas you feel necessary. You want the door feeling "smooth". Don't sand too much in any one area as you want all areas to naturally "blend" together when completed.
* When you have that done, don't forget to wipe the door down with a soft rag when complete so you get all of the dust off before repainting the door. Now you're ready to flip the door over & do the other side. So far so good.
* You're now ready for the paint. I will make the assumption that you will be repainting your interior wood door with the same color of paint that is now on the door (or something pretty close to the existing paint).
* The next quandary: do you use a paint roller or paint brush to repaint your interior wood door? That depends: If you have a 4,6,or 8 raised panel door let's say, then I would suggest you use a good finish paint brush since you will need to get in the nooks & crannies in & around the raised panel sections. You would first repaint the individual panel sections then graduate over to the middle, top, & bottom flat stile areas of the door then finish off with the full length vertical sections of the door. Take note that you make the brush strokes in the same direction as the wood grains on the door. Remember....nice even strokes.
* If you have a full "flat" door slab, then I would suggest using a mini roller when repainting this type of interior wood door. This will give you full even strokes from the top of the door to the bottom of the door with the miniroller........take care with applying the same amount of paint on your strokes as you want a nice even coverage. On the last pass through, make sure you go from top to bottom without any breaks so you don't get any unwanted paint marks on your door.
* Let the paint dry before flipping the door over to do the other side. Now repeat the above process for repainting the interior wood door. Don't forget to paint the edges of the door.
* You can now reinstall the door hinges then take the door in & pop the door back into place. Make sure you have clean hands & fingers as you do not want to "smudge" the paint. You will also want to make sure the paint is fully dry or your fingers could "indent right into the door" depending how heavy your door is (trust me...I know!) when you are carrying it back into the house. Careful not to bang into any walls now!
* Once you have the door back in it's opening you can reinstall the door handle assembly. Depending how old your handle unit is, you might want to spray a little silicone spray into the assembly before reattaching the unit. Close the door & check to see if the door strike is adjusted properly.
* There you have it! Remember not to "race" through this project as it will show....in a bad way. Repainting your interior wood door(s) can be an easy project you can do yourself.....if you have the time...and the patience. Now....you're "in-the-know!
Click here for some other cool painting tips.....in "video"
Paint On!
VideoJoeKnows
* Remove the pins from your existing interior wood door & remove the door. Remove the door & take it to the garage. You're going to repaint the door in the garage. You don't want to repaint the wood door in place as you will have difficulty painting around the door hinges & door knob not to mention getting paint on the door jamb on the hinge side, carpet, tile, wall(s), etc..
* Before you repaint the interior wood door, you are going to remove the existing hinges from the door. Be careful as you remove these hinges as you do not want to damage the surrounding painted wood area around the hinges (this happens sometimes). If the hinges are tight on the door (even after removing the screws) take special care on removing them.
* You will also be removing the door knob assembly from the door....note how the door handle comes apart so you can "remember" how it goes back together. Keep all of the door handle parts together so you don't lose any of the pieces.
* Time to set-up your working environment. You can set the door up in two different ways. You can lean the door against a wall & put wood blocks under the bottom edge to keep the bottom of the door up off of the floor or.... you can get two sawhorses then...put two 3" long screws in the top of the door & at the bottom of the door (towards both ends/letting each screw stick out about 1 1/2") & set the door flat between each sawhorse letting the screws set on the sawhorses....now you can flip the door over each time without damaging your paint job.
* I prefer laying the door flat as you can control the sanding & repainting of the door better then painting up & down strokes evenly when leaning the door up against a wall....make sense? You might have to move some stuff around in your garage so you have enough room but it will be well worth it. Ready for the next step?
* It's now time to take some "fine" sandpaper & lightly sand the door before repainting it. This will put some "etch" marks in the door & make the new paint stick better. It will also remove any raised wood grain areas or soften any "bits" on the existing paint finish. Run your hand down the door when sanding has been completed & spot sand any other areas you feel necessary. You want the door feeling "smooth". Don't sand too much in any one area as you want all areas to naturally "blend" together when completed.
* When you have that done, don't forget to wipe the door down with a soft rag when complete so you get all of the dust off before repainting the door. Now you're ready to flip the door over & do the other side. So far so good.
* You're now ready for the paint. I will make the assumption that you will be repainting your interior wood door with the same color of paint that is now on the door (or something pretty close to the existing paint).
* The next quandary: do you use a paint roller or paint brush to repaint your interior wood door? That depends: If you have a 4,6,or 8 raised panel door let's say, then I would suggest you use a good finish paint brush since you will need to get in the nooks & crannies in & around the raised panel sections. You would first repaint the individual panel sections then graduate over to the middle, top, & bottom flat stile areas of the door then finish off with the full length vertical sections of the door. Take note that you make the brush strokes in the same direction as the wood grains on the door. Remember....nice even strokes.
* If you have a full "flat" door slab, then I would suggest using a mini roller when repainting this type of interior wood door. This will give you full even strokes from the top of the door to the bottom of the door with the miniroller........take care with applying the same amount of paint on your strokes as you want a nice even coverage. On the last pass through, make sure you go from top to bottom without any breaks so you don't get any unwanted paint marks on your door.
* Let the paint dry before flipping the door over to do the other side. Now repeat the above process for repainting the interior wood door. Don't forget to paint the edges of the door.
* You can now reinstall the door hinges then take the door in & pop the door back into place. Make sure you have clean hands & fingers as you do not want to "smudge" the paint. You will also want to make sure the paint is fully dry or your fingers could "indent right into the door" depending how heavy your door is (trust me...I know!) when you are carrying it back into the house. Careful not to bang into any walls now!
* Once you have the door back in it's opening you can reinstall the door handle assembly. Depending how old your handle unit is, you might want to spray a little silicone spray into the assembly before reattaching the unit. Close the door & check to see if the door strike is adjusted properly.
* There you have it! Remember not to "race" through this project as it will show....in a bad way. Repainting your interior wood door(s) can be an easy project you can do yourself.....if you have the time...and the patience. Now....you're "in-the-know!
Click here for some other cool painting tips.....in "video"
Paint On!
VideoJoeKnows
Friday, October 9, 2009
Painting Interior Door Frames
Painting interior door frames can be an easy project.....if you know how. Setting up the job properly & having the right painting materials is key. Painting interior (or exterior) door frames is a project you can do yourself......if you know the steps. Here's what you need to know:
* Before you start painting the door frames, remove the door from the door frame. This will give you a better overall finished job. Don't forget to remove the hinges from the door frame & the door strike that the door latches into: be careful when removing so you don't chip the paint or pull up any bits of wood.
* Caulk the door trim edges of your door frames (if this is a first time painting). Caulk any & all edges of trim, casings, door stops, door jamb connections, etc.. Do not leave any line uncaulked (no matter how tight it looks). Before you start your painting, also caulk the top of the header trim (this will prevent any unwanted "guests") & the side trim that connects to the sheetrock.
* Fill all nail holes on door frames (jambs) & casing trim. This can be done two ways: you can caulk these holes....or....use wood putty then sand when dry. Most people caulk the holes then wipe off with finger....this is a quick way to do it if you have lots of door frames to do....but the overall paint finish of the door frames will not come out as nice-looking as using the wood putty process as you can see very small impressions of where the nail holes are since the caulking has a tendency to push into the nail holes when you wipe it off.
* Using wood putty takes longer (for covering the nail holes) but your project will look way better. Make sure you sand the wood putty before painting though. You could also use "spackle" but I would not recommend this as spackle dries rough & pourous looking & the paint "takes" to the spackle areas different than the rest of the frame/casing areas (meaning....you will see exactly where your spackle areas are when you finish painting.....not good).
* Lightly sand the door frame & wipe down. Now you are ready to apply the primer (if this is a first time painting). Apply one coat of primer & let dry. Be careful around the door hinge cut-outs & the strike plate cut out as you do not want any primer overage to run down the frame.
* You're ready to apply the first coat of finish paint to the door frames but......there's one thing I want you to do first. Have you ever heard of "flotrol" before? I didn't think so. Flotrol is a product you put in your finish paint before painting the door frames. Flotrol will make your paint "blend" in better & not show the paint "strokes" as much. I've used this product for years & it makes the door frames look better when you're painting them.
* Put a little "flotrol" in your finish paint (make sure the flotrol is conducive to/with whatever type of finish paint you are using....if you have questions, ask). There's directions on how much to use on the container. Mix it in & apply your first coat of finish paint (if this is a first time painting) to the door frames. Let dry.
* Lightly sand this first coat of finish paint with very fine sand paper. Now apply the second coat of finish paint. Make sure you use a nice tapered paint brush for applying the paint. Be careful around the door hinges & strike plate area as previously explained.
* If you are just re-painting your door frames, you will only need to apply one coat of finish paint (if you are using the same color as the old paint finish) but use the flotrol OK? Do a quick check on the overall condition of the door frames/trim, & caulk or putty as needed. Lightly sand door frame & trim before painting.
* Make sure you remove the existing door from the door frame (if you are re-painting) & remove the hinges & strike plate. You could leave the door up without removing it but then you have to paint around the hinges/strike plate (or mask off the hinges/strike plate) & it's very difficult to apply the paint without hitting the door or properly finishing off the hinge side of the door frame. Your painting project will turn out better if you remove the door etc. especially if you are not a pro.
* Take your time, do a good job, have a game plan for your project, & you are set to go. Painting interior (or exterior) door frames can be fun & easy to complete....if you know how.....and now you do!
Click here to get some free video painting tips
Paint On!
VideoJoeKnows
* Before you start painting the door frames, remove the door from the door frame. This will give you a better overall finished job. Don't forget to remove the hinges from the door frame & the door strike that the door latches into: be careful when removing so you don't chip the paint or pull up any bits of wood.
* Caulk the door trim edges of your door frames (if this is a first time painting). Caulk any & all edges of trim, casings, door stops, door jamb connections, etc.. Do not leave any line uncaulked (no matter how tight it looks). Before you start your painting, also caulk the top of the header trim (this will prevent any unwanted "guests") & the side trim that connects to the sheetrock.
* Fill all nail holes on door frames (jambs) & casing trim. This can be done two ways: you can caulk these holes....or....use wood putty then sand when dry. Most people caulk the holes then wipe off with finger....this is a quick way to do it if you have lots of door frames to do....but the overall paint finish of the door frames will not come out as nice-looking as using the wood putty process as you can see very small impressions of where the nail holes are since the caulking has a tendency to push into the nail holes when you wipe it off.
* Using wood putty takes longer (for covering the nail holes) but your project will look way better. Make sure you sand the wood putty before painting though. You could also use "spackle" but I would not recommend this as spackle dries rough & pourous looking & the paint "takes" to the spackle areas different than the rest of the frame/casing areas (meaning....you will see exactly where your spackle areas are when you finish painting.....not good).
* Lightly sand the door frame & wipe down. Now you are ready to apply the primer (if this is a first time painting). Apply one coat of primer & let dry. Be careful around the door hinge cut-outs & the strike plate cut out as you do not want any primer overage to run down the frame.
* You're ready to apply the first coat of finish paint to the door frames but......there's one thing I want you to do first. Have you ever heard of "flotrol" before? I didn't think so. Flotrol is a product you put in your finish paint before painting the door frames. Flotrol will make your paint "blend" in better & not show the paint "strokes" as much. I've used this product for years & it makes the door frames look better when you're painting them.
* Put a little "flotrol" in your finish paint (make sure the flotrol is conducive to/with whatever type of finish paint you are using....if you have questions, ask). There's directions on how much to use on the container. Mix it in & apply your first coat of finish paint (if this is a first time painting) to the door frames. Let dry.
* Lightly sand this first coat of finish paint with very fine sand paper. Now apply the second coat of finish paint. Make sure you use a nice tapered paint brush for applying the paint. Be careful around the door hinges & strike plate area as previously explained.
* If you are just re-painting your door frames, you will only need to apply one coat of finish paint (if you are using the same color as the old paint finish) but use the flotrol OK? Do a quick check on the overall condition of the door frames/trim, & caulk or putty as needed. Lightly sand door frame & trim before painting.
* Make sure you remove the existing door from the door frame (if you are re-painting) & remove the hinges & strike plate. You could leave the door up without removing it but then you have to paint around the hinges/strike plate (or mask off the hinges/strike plate) & it's very difficult to apply the paint without hitting the door or properly finishing off the hinge side of the door frame. Your painting project will turn out better if you remove the door etc. especially if you are not a pro.
* Take your time, do a good job, have a game plan for your project, & you are set to go. Painting interior (or exterior) door frames can be fun & easy to complete....if you know how.....and now you do!
Click here to get some free video painting tips
Paint On!
VideoJoeKnows
Wednesday, October 7, 2009
Interior/Exterior Painting Tips......questions & comments
Do you have a painting tip you would like to share? Maybe you have a question you would like answered by VideoJoeKnows or make a comment in regard to interior/exterior painting,etc..
For your painting tips......at the bottom of this "post" you can send in a comment/question(s) & VideoJoeKnows will "add" to your comment. This may be helpful to you for your next painting project or maybe you would like to just share your tips on painting with us.
VideoJoeKnows will make every effort in answering your question(s)/comment(s) regarding painting tips or....whatever. Maybe you will even "stump" VideoJoeKnows.........who knows? :0
Either way.....VideoJoeKnows would love to hear from you. Click on the "comment" area at the bottom of this post.
Click here to get some cool "free" video painting tips
Paint On!
VideoJoeKnows
For your painting tips......at the bottom of this "post" you can send in a comment/question(s) & VideoJoeKnows will "add" to your comment. This may be helpful to you for your next painting project or maybe you would like to just share your tips on painting with us.
VideoJoeKnows will make every effort in answering your question(s)/comment(s) regarding painting tips or....whatever. Maybe you will even "stump" VideoJoeKnows.........who knows? :0
Either way.....VideoJoeKnows would love to hear from you. Click on the "comment" area at the bottom of this post.
Click here to get some cool "free" video painting tips
Paint On!
VideoJoeKnows
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