Saturday, October 31, 2009

"New Age Way" to wrap & unwrap your extension cords (video content)

"New Age Way" to wrap & unwrap your extension cords. Do you want to "know" how to do "it"?'s really not a "new age way" but it might be for you. Most professional construction workers "have" to wrap up their extension cords this way (if they're using a 10 gauge or 12 gauge extension cord). It makes it way easier to wrap & unwrap extension cords that's for sure. Here's the standard way to unwrap an extension cord.....& tell me if this has ever happened to you:


Believe it or not, there is a better way to wrap up your extension cords so that when you unwrap your extension cords......this (getting tangles) won't happen to you. It's what I call the "new age way". I only call it that because if you don't know how to wrap & unwrap an extension cord this way....then it "IS" a new age way "for you". I think you should have options when it comes to doing things so here's your "option" when it comes to wrapping & unwrapping your extension cords.

* Check out this instructional video where it shows you how to unwrap your extension cords this "new age way". Watch closely.


Pretty cool huh? Basically you wrap up your extension cord in a series of slip knots so that when you unwrap the extension cord, the extension cord will easily pull out, without tangling up. There is a trick in knowing how to properly wrap & unwrap your extension cords but first I want to show you another short video on unwrapping an extension cord but this time I will go slower OK?


Maybe you've heard about wrapping & unwrapping extension cords this way but you tried it once & you couldn't figure out how to "undo" the extension cord properly so you figured it was a hassle & you'd just wrap up your extension cords the old fashioned way. I want to show you where you might have gone wrong:


Are you ready to see how to wrap the extension cord up the new & improved way (to you)? Here you go:


There's also (here's the 2nd way) a way to make the extension cord shorter....when wrapping it up. This works great for 50 ft. & 100 ft. extension cords. Make sure, when you're ready to unwrap the extension cord, you unwrap the extension cord from the "right" end. It definitely makes a difference which "end" you try to unwrap at....maybe that's what you were having troubles with from before? Check it out:


Now you're "in-the-know". If you decide you still want to wrap up your extension cords the old "standard way"'s cool. At least you know you now have options on wrapping up your extension cords. If you are still a little unsure about how to go about & wrap up your extension cords this way....don't fret (since my right hand is your left & my left is your right, you might run into difficulties....I know I did when I was first taught). I had to stand side by side another guy so he could show me then I finally got it right.

If this is the case, I have prepared another instructional video article/post that's just for you. I actually get under the camera & show you exactly what to do.......that way my left is your left & my right is your right. I have titled it "Wrapping up those pesky extension cords". Try it out!

Click here to get some cool instructional video tips for your next painting project

Wrap On!


Tips to roll & unroll 50 ft. extension cords (instructional video)

Tips for rolling & unrolling your 50 ft. extension cords....these tips will be useful. The standard way to unroll a 50 ft. extension cord is to untie the end of the cord & lay the rest of the extension cord on the floor & start pulling the extension cord out to unroll the rest of the 50 ft. extension cord. Sometimes you get that I mean you can sometimes unroll the entire extension cord without tangling the cord all up. More times than not though, the extension cord has a mind of its own & "wants" to tangle up just to get you mad.

* Check out this instructional video *


The 50 ft. extension cord can easily tangle when you start to unroll it (as you just saw). You've got to be careful when unrolling a 50 ft. extension cord or the same thing will (& can) happen to you. There's got to be a better way to unroll your 50 ft. extension cords....and there is. Hold on to the entire cord & start unrolling the extension cord right off of your hand, one loop at a time. Walk the extension cord on out, one loop at a time. You will find this is a much easier & faster way to unroll your 50 ft. extension cords (or 100 ft. extension cords).

* Check out this instructional video (good video content) *


When you want to roll your 50 ft. extension cords back up (or 100 ft. extension cords)....there's a right way & a wrong way to do this too......did you know that? If you want to roll the extension cord back up the standard way, start with the "female" end of the extension cord. Roll the extension cord on your arm making sure to unroll (& unravel) all of the twisted/kinked areas as you go.....this is an important step! (this will make the extension cord easier to unroll & reuse the next time you need to roll out your extension cord). Leave a little bit of the 50 ft. extension cord unrolled (at the end), then wrap this around the rolled up extension cord & tie off. When you are ready to unroll your 50 ft. extension cord again, untie the cord (from the male end), plug the male end to the wall then "walk out" the extension cord, loop by loop (as previously explained above). That's it.

* Check out this instructional video & see what I mean *


I've touched on the "standard ways" to roll & unroll your 50 ft. &/or 100 ft. extenison cords but........there is a "better" way. Do you want to learn a "New Age Way" to roll & unroll your extension cords? I hope your answer is "yes". See my article/post titled "New Age Way" to wrap & unwrap your extension cords. This will give you other options that may come in useful to you...or a friend. You might find the "instructional videos" helpful....or at least interesting! Read it, see it, try it, "know it".

Click here on how to get some free instructional video tips for your next painting project

Roll On!


Tuesday, October 27, 2009

Dry Wall needed for the "mud"

Dry Wall Repair........"what tools do I need to install the mud?" I'm glad you asked that question. You don't need too many tools to repair dry wall. Hey.... "don't forget" to check out the instructional videos, at the bottom of this post, for visual examples of the tools you will need (I think you will find these videos helpful/lots of video content). I will now give you a "shopping list" of the tools required for your dry wall repair(s) follows:

* You will definitely need a dry wall pan, for your dry wall repair. A plastic dry wall pan is sufficient & less costly than a metal dry wall pan & if you decide that dry wall repair is up your alley for a part time (or full time) job, then you will want to graduate to a metal dry wall pan.

* Purchasing a variety of dry wall "knives" is a must, for your dry wall repair(s). I'm talking the dry wall "knives" that you will be spreading the mud with. These knives look like large putty knives. The hardware store has two grades of metal dry wall knives with one grade being less costly than the other. Stick with the less expensive grade as they will work just as well as the others. If you end up deciding you will be doing alot of dry wall repairing in the future (or now), you might want to invest in the more expensive grade knives.

* For your dry wall repair, I recommend applying the paper tape or the webbing tape with a 4" knife. Once you get the hang of applying the mud to the wall, you may want to start using a 6" knife which will apply more mud & save you a little time. Just make sure you get good with the 4" dry wall knife first....OK?

* If you decide to use quickset mud for your dry wall repair, I recommend using a 3" knife to mix up the quickset in your dry wall pan. A 3" knife comes in handy for all sorts of small areas (when applying dry wall mud) so it's a good idea to have one of these around.

* For floating out your final dry wall repair coat of mud, I recommend using a 10" knife. This knife's shape looks a little different than the other knives (as mentioned above) but this knife works great for bridging out the dry wall mud & blending the new mud into the existing wall. You just can't do this with the 6" knife & get a good finish to your dry wall repair (depending how big you dry wall repair area is). If your dry wall repair area is very small like a little hole in the wall or one open seam to cover, then you "might" be able to get by with the 6" knife but I would still recommend having a 10" knife around (just in case).

* The hardware store does carry an 8" knife but you can achieve the same results by using the 6" knife first & finishing off your dry wall repair with the 10" knife in lieu of an 8" knife (I didn't want you to have to buy every size of knife out word!). They also carry a 12" knife & a 14" knife (for applying skiptrowel texture,wiping down spray texture knockdown,etc. but we're talking dry wall repairs here so I didn't want you to have to break the bank when picking up the needed dry wall tools....capeche?)

* I also carry an empty large plastic water bottle in my arsenol, for using to pour water in my dry wall pan when mixing up dry quickset material for my dry wall repairs. It certainly comes in handy. I encourage you to carry one as well. It beats filling your pan with water at the kitchen or bathroom sink thinking you won't make a mess (when mixing up quickset) but please don't do this as you "will" make a mess.......Murphy's Law.

* News Flash * Check out the instructional videos at the end of this post. Lots of good video content!

* When purchasing "knives" for your dry wall repair, I would stress to you "not" to think you can do your dry wall repairs with the plastic knives you will see for sale at the hardware store. You may think they will work but they really don't work very well, especially if you are applying quickset material to your dry wall repair, as your plastic knives will flex more than you want them to, leaving extra mud on the wall in certain areas thereby creating small mounds that may show up when you paint your dry wall repairs. Buyer beware!

* A hand held sanding "paddle" is a must before & after installing your final coat of mud to your dry wall repair area. This helps blend your dry wall repair into the existing wall. This type of sanding "paddle" is easy to use, has a handle on it, & you can change the sand paper on it whenever you need to. It's a plastic unit & very inexpensive. This works great for small dry wall repairs. Don't forget the sand paper!

* Oh......a pair of gloves come in handy too....when completing your dry wall repairs. I usually get the ones that have rubber on the hand area & cotton on the top part or you can use full cotton gloves. It minimizes the amount of mud you will get on your hands when you're working on your dry wall repair. Repairs to your dry wall seem easier to complete when wearing a pair of gloves. Of course you don't need gloves....just a thought.

That's about it. won't need too many tools for your dry wall repair(s). If you think of anything else you may need....get it. This article/post is for you to start using your mind & thinking about your dry wall repair project(s) before starting them. Make your list of materials needed.....think about what tools you need & have them available.....& be ready for your dry wall repair projects......or any other project for that matter. Hope this helps.

If you have a friend who you think may benefit from reading this post & seeing the instructional videos, please click on the little envelope (with the arrow on it) at the end of this post. It's easy to do & your friend might just thank you.

Click here to get some video painting tips for your drywall repair

Patch On!


Saturday, October 24, 2009

Dry Wall Repair....what tools do I need?

Dry wall repair....what tools do I need? It depends what "kind" of dry wall repairs you will be doing. Will you be installing the actual dry wall for your dry wall repair or will you be installing the dry wall mud for your dry wall repair? Different dry wall repairs....different dry wall tools.

* To actually install the dry wall "board" material, for your dry wall repairs, you will need the following:

* Cordless electric drill. If you are installing the dry wall board for your drywall repair & you will be installing "screws" then you need an electric cordless drill. You can use a regular drill if you want. Or you can use a "screw gun" that is specially designed to install drywall screws for your drywall repair.

* Dry wall hammer (for installing dry wall nails). This is a specially designed hammer that has a rounded tapered head for installing dry wall nails (if you are going to install your dry wall with nails instead of screws....I recommend installing screws though). When installing the nails, you want to hit the nails in flush with the dry wall then one more hit after that & that will put a round indented circle into the surrounding dry wall around the nail head. This will give enough room for the dry wall mud to properly cover over. You don't really need this kind of hammer for installing your dry wall repair though. Screws should work fine....& better.

* Tape measure & pencil. Generally a 25-30 foot tape measure works well & a carpenter's pencil works better than a regular pencil.

* Dry wall knife: make sure you have extra dry wall blades as you always want to keep a sharp blade in your knife. Get the retractable knife blade so when you're not using the knife, you can retract the blade....for safety purposes.

* Keyhole saw. Better known as a dry wall saw but it's the little hand held saw not the big saw. You'll use this to cut out for the electrical outlets or switch boxes or to cut curves with,etc.. Good to have around for all your dry wall repairs.

* T-square to cut your dry wall with. It's a "big" t-square (made specially to cut dry wall) that will cut up to 4 feet long. You could also use a level as a straight edge & cut with that. It helps to have straight lines for your dry wall repair(s).

* Dry wall rasp. It shaves off the edges of the dry wall once you cut it...for nice straight edges. If your dry wall barely doesn't fit (once you've cut it), you can shave off the edge(s) easily with this rasp rather than using your dry wall knife (that's an accident ready to happen).

That's about all you'll need, tool wise, to install the dry wall for your dry wall repairs. I'll talk about what tools you will need to use (for your dry wall repairs) for installing the dry wall mud next time. See you then!

Click here for some video tips on painting your dry wall repair

Patch On!


Drywall Fix.......popped nail/screw heads

Drywall Fix......popped nail/screw heads. What now? There are some does & don'ts for this particular drywall fix. Can you fix this drywall problem....easily? Yes & no.....if you don't do it right. Here's the does & don'ts:

* Don't: Do not think you can simply put some spackle over the popped heads for this drywall fix. The nail/screw head is already loose. What makes you think that your spackle will permanently solve this drywall fix? The same thing will happen later on....think about it.

* Do: For this drywall fix, locate the visible head, determine if the head is a nail head or screw head. If it's a nail head, take a nail set & sink the nail into the stud just a little bit (in order to make the nail head tight into the wood). If it's a screw head, remove some of the sheetrock mud & tighten down this screw. This is a good technique for this type of drywall fix.

* Don't: For this drywall fix, do not think that you can just tap the top of the nail in a little bit & think that it's tight into the wood. In most cases, the nail will still be "loose". It's just going to be below the surface a little that's all. Once you put spackle over this (or whatever you choose to do for the drywall fix), the nail will magically reappear later on down the road, because the nail is still loose & moving around. Trust me...the nail will poke it's crafty little head up again in the future. Maybe not right away but soon enough. You've got to use a nail set for these pesky nails OK?

* Do: To continue the drywall fix, install a sheetrock screw (use the "coarse" threaded ones...if you are going into a wood wall) above & below the nail head location. This will "snug" up the drywall wall area above & below the previous loose nail/screw. Install the screw so the head of the screw does not break the drywall skin. If it does break the skin, install another screw & make sure this one sinks tight & not breaking the drywall face but yet down far enough so that you can patch over it will your drywall fix material.

* Don't: For this drywall fix, I would "encourage" (& I mean strongly encourage) you "NOT" to use drywall nails above & below the visible loose nail/screw head. Install screws not nails for the drywall fix (as previously explained above). Several things could occur if you use nails to fix the drywall....all being bad! You could crack the other side of the wall while banging the nail in (if the stud is rock hard). You could expose more nail/screw heads just by banging the new drywall nails in thereby causing more damage to your wall. You could dislodge your favorite piece of artwork (I didn't think that would happen......too bad). You could hit a knot in the existing stud causing a richochete motion in the wall causing other unknown damage or even cracking the stucco on the other side of the wall (if there is stucco......I didn't know stucco could crack so easily). You could knock the clock off the other side of the wall (& it was your Mom's favorite clock.....she told you to be careful too...didn't she....& you said you would, ugh). You could wake up the baby that was soundly sleeping in the other know the baby that it took hours to finally get to go to sleep?....that one (I won't have to tell you if that's a bad thing). And the list goes on. Whatever could happen.....will happen.....cuz it's you! Everything happens to you remember? I don't usually go on this long with one thought but I wanted you to get the "full monty" of what I am telling you here. Screws are your friends. Remember that!

* Don't: For this drywall fix, you better not think you have to call in someone & pay them to complete this drywall fix for you. You can do this. Re-read this article/post & get to work. If you have any questions, don't be bashful about leaving a comment for me at the bottom of this post OK?

* Now, to complete your drywall fix..........put a little repair material over those babies, dab a little touch up paint on (two coats now) & your drywall fix will be history.

* Do: Sit back, put your feet up & relax a little. You just did a drywall fix all by yourself....& it turned out pretty good too. You are now "in the know" & "no one" can take "that" away from you.

Want to get some painting tips on how to paint your drywall fix? Click here then!

Fix On!


Repairing Drywall....made easy

Repairing drywall....made easy. Yes, you can do this. Repairing drywall isn't like rocket science but there are a few things you need to "know" . Repairing your drywall can be easy & turn out great or it can be your worst nightmare. Here's what you need to "know" :

* When repairing drywall, it's important to take your time & do it right. Make sure you carefully cut out the damaged sheetrock/drywall repair area. Take note that you may not be able to see everything inside the existing wall before repairing the drywall & removing the damaged existing wiring, plumbing pipes, telephone lines, etc..

* When starting your repairing drywall project, can you imagine if you cut an existing electrical wire or a water line? Your little repairing drywall project now becomes something bigger than you could've ever imagined....especially if you don't "know" anything about repairing electrical wiring or have to call in a plumbing professional to clean up your "mess" you may have just caused yourself, not to mention the water damage, etc., etc..

* Even if you do "know" how to complete electrical & plumbing repairs, that wasn't part of the repairing drywall project, now was it? This was suppose to be a quick easy job that you could complete in a very swift turn-around. It wasn't suppose to cause "major surgery"! This was a repairing drywall project...nothing more....nothing less.

* This is why some do-it-yourselfers are gun shy when it comes to repairing drywall. Yes, there are horror stories out there but they are out there for you to learn from, not add to! It's not a race when you are removing the sheetrock. Take your time. It will "save" you time in the long more ways than one....$$$.

* There's a "knack" to repairing drywall. Slowly cut the damaged drywall to be removed. Take out a square area of sheetrock & shine a light inside the wall, to see what's inside, before cutting anymore drywall. This process takes a little longer than making all of your cuts at the same time then pulling the drywall down, but you'll be glad you did.

* Using a dull sheetrock saw, when repairing drywall, is also a good idea, in case you nick an electrical wire, etc.. You may not go all the way through the outside sheathing of the romex wiring before "feeling it" with a dull sheetrock saw. Do not saw too fast & try to let your hands "feel" for the unforseen. You are now a "ninja".

* You also will want to be very careful when repairing drywall, if you are using an electric sawzall, as it is difficult to know if you are cutting any unwanted "creatures" in the wall.....especially if you are cutting down next to an existing wood stud in the you can easily cut anything in the way since there is no "give" in electrical wires or plumbing lines. You can cut through these like "butter" without even knowing it.

* When repairing drywall, if you are needing to install wood backing in the existing wall, make sure you measure the existing wood studs. A "new" standard wood 2x4 stud is normally 3 1/2" wide (sometimes just a hair larger than this) when purchased, as most new 2x4 studs are still wet & have not cured yet. All of this moisture in the new studs give the new "wood" a tendency to expand just a bit than when the studs are dry & cured, since they have a tendency to shrink.

* Depending on how old your existing 2x4 studs are, will determine their actual size at the time of repairing your drywall. I've seen some wood studs as small as 3 5/16" overall. Most of the average size studs I've seen, have been a little less than 3 1/2" & sometimes 3 3/8". Do you see where I'm going with this?

* If you are not watching it, you may unknowingly "cram" a new 3 1/2" wood stud in an existing wall cavity that is 3 3/8" maybe smaller (depending on how old the home is). If you do this, when repairing the drywall, your new wood stud backing may have a tendency to stick out thereby making your same size drywall poke out further than the existing drywall. Now you have a bump in the wall....literally. If it doesn't bump out, you may have just cracked the other side of your wall or popped some nails...what do you think about that?

* Before repairing the drywall, it may be necessary to "shave" the new wood stud backing down, so it will fit in the wall. See what I mean? This may take a little bit of work, as you need to "rip" down the side of the new wood backing with a skilsaw, but this separates the men from the boys!

**News Flash** Here's the crux of the "story" right here. Pay attention now:

* Spending extra time on repairing your drywall patch, should be foremost in your mind, as what you are trying to achieve is to match the existing conditions so you can't see the patch when you get done. Once you have achieved this "thought process", the rest falls into place. This is what alot of do-it-yourselfers forget yet "this" (thought process) is the most important part of the project!

* When repairing drywall, make sure you use the proper sheetrock size for your replacement "patch". Once you cut & remove the damaged drywall, it can sometimes be difficult to tell what the actual size of the drywall is. Sometimes 1/2" sheetrock looks & measures out to be 5/8" sheetrock if you are measuring the side where you have just cut & removed from...but if you carefully press down the cut area, you may see that the actual size is different than what you "thought" you "were" going to use.

* Now......double check your measurement so you purchase & install the proper size drywall to your repairing area as your new drywall patch area does not want to extend out further than the existing surrounding wall area. Measure & install the right material once!

That's it for this time. Read this post a few times & get it "lodged" into your head before tackling your repairing drywall project. You'll be glad you did. Now you "know" .

Here's some great tips for painting your drywall repair area

Patch On!


Patching can do it!

Patching CAN do it! Patching drywall is easy....once you know the steps. Patching your drywall also requires using the proper materials....that is, if you're patching the drywall area the same day. Do you have 3 days for patching your drywall? Neither do I! That's why it's important to use the right materials.

I recommend using webbing tape for patching your drywall. This tape has an adhesive on the back of it so it will stick to the wall without using sheetrock mud! Use the webbing tape over the open seams or hole areas. Apply it, wipe it down, & you're ready to install the sheetrock mud. That's it.

Patching drywall requires using the right sheetrock mud (for a one day turn-a-round). The product to use is called "quickset" because it sets up "quick". It's a non-shrinking material when it dries so this makes patching drywall a snap because you can do your entire patch "the same day".

The quickset doesn't take very long to dry so you can apply the next coat soon after the first coat dries. You can purchase the quickset in different "minute" increments at the store. I would suggest you use something like 30 minute mud. It comes in a dry form so look for the bags of product at the store. If you have any questions, talk to your local hardware associate.

Apply 2 coats of quickset to your patching drywall area. The first coat will only take a few minutes to harden up enough to then put on the next coat. You don't have to wait (between coats) a full 30 minutes....just until the material is hard enough that you can scrape off the excess ridges before applying your next coat. 30 minutes (if you use the "30 Easy Sand Material") is how long the material will dry 100% but you can go over it before 30 minutes, as explained.

You can use 20 minute, 45 minute, 90 minute, or even 5 minute quickset if you want. I was just suggesting 30 minute for a happy medium is all. They're all good & patching drywall can still be accomplished in a day (just a bit of a time difference depending on what minute material you decide to use).

Once you have applied the 2 coats of quickset to your patching drywall area, you will now use a different mud to complete your project. Yes, you now have to apply one more coat of material. A third coat as it were. You will use a premixed wet mud material. You can either use "all purpose" or "topping" material you'll find at your local hardware store. This will be used for your 3rd coat (better known as the skim coat).

Apply a thin layer of this material over your patching drywall area. Skim over the area making the overall patching drywall area larger so you can bridge this material further over into your existing wall area.

You need to use this product over your quickset so the paint will cover properly, at your patching drywall area, or your patch will stand out & it will look like you didn't know what you were doing. Quickset material is very pourous & will not take paint very good (meaning....your patch will show!) Now you know better don't you?

You have now completed your patching drywall lesson, other than sanding, & you can do that just before you paint your patching drywall area. Don't be afraid to use quickset as it's easy to use. It takes just a bit longer since you have to mix it up with water but it's not a problem. Plus the remaining quickset you don't use, will store forever....pretty much, since it's in the dry form. Next time you need it, whip it out, mix it up, & you're ready to go. A little bit goes a long way.

Patching drywall yourself just takes a little knack & you'll just keep getting better & better the more patches you do. You'll always learn more the next time you do a patch on your drywall so get started. It will give you a sense of accomplishment plus you will save some money too, since you won't have to call in the pros. A who couldn't use some extra cash right about now?

Patching drywall is a fun project. You can do it. Step in & get your feet wet!

Click here for some great tips on painting your sheetrock patch

Patch On!


Sheetrock Repair....what tape do I use?

Sheetrock Repair....what tape do I use? Does it really matter what tape I use to do a sheetrock repair? It depends on how many sheetrock repairs you will be making. If you are doing alot of little sheetrock repairs, I would suggest using a webbing tape. Here's another reason:

Webbing tape comes with an adhesive on the back of it. You simply put the webbing tape on your sheetrock repair area & you are ready to apply the sheetrock mud. It's a pretty simple process & one that keeps your hands clean from the sheetrock mud you will be applying as you don't put any mud on until you have completed putting on the webbing tape.

I usually put the tape on then use a 4" sheetrock putty knife to cut the end of the tape with. Unroll & put the tape on your sheetrock repair area then place your 4" knife on the tape end. Hold the remaining roll of tape at a 45 degree angle & quickly "rip" it off. This may take you a couple of times to master but you'll get the hang of it. Now gently wipe down the applied tape with your knife. That's it.

If you have an open seam area at your sheetrock repair (I'm talking a fairly large open seam), you might want to think about applying 2 overlapping layers of the webbing tape. This will give it a little more support than just one layer. Once you apply the sheetrock mud to the sheetrock repair area, the mud will penetrate through the little holes of the webbing tape & will make a good bond to this area.

You can even patch over large sheetrock repair areas like an unused light switch or old electrical plug location. You will want to put several overlapping layers of webbing tape here. Apply the sheetrock mud & presto. Make sure you apply at least two coats of mud over this sheetrock repair area to get a great bond, then apply a final thin layer of sheetrock mud over that (called a skim coat).

Read my article/post: "Drywall patch.....what material do I use" for installing "quickset" to your patch areas (as a suggestion). For all your sheetrock repairs, webbing tape is the way to go, hands down.

Yeah, you can use paper tape for your sheetrock repairs. You have to install the mud first then apply the tape then wipe the tape down. The trick here is making sure you have applied enough sheetrock mud to your sheetrock repair area before applying the tape, as you do not want any air bubbles under the tape or your sheetrock repair area will have ripples in it when you are done.

You may get some sheetrock mud on your hands while doing the paper tape process & once this happens, it starts getting worse (depending on how many sheetrock repair areas you will be completing). I like to keep my hands clean, when completing sheetrock repairs, & don't like to stop & start, stop & start between tape, mud, tape, mud, if you know what I mean.

The webbing tape will accomplish the same thing but cleaner & in some cases, you will get a stronger sheetrock repair. Paper tape also will not properly cover large sheetrock repair areas like old electrical box locations or gapping holes in your sheetrock. Now you're seeing what I'm talking about huh? Webbing tape just makes so much more sense for your sheetrock repairs......doesn't it?

Click here for some painting tips to paint your sheetrock repair

Patch On!


Friday, October 23, 2009

Drywall patch.....what material do I use?

Drywall patch....what material do I use? Good question. When I patch drywall, I use a material product called "quickset". The actual drywall patch material is not called that at the store though.

The reason why you would want to use this drywall patch product (quickset), rather than regular wet style drywall mud, is because wet drywall mud will shrink between coats & the shrinking process lasts all the way through the necessary drying time between coats & it usually takes a day (between coats) for this type of mud to properly dry between coats so you cannot complete your drywall patch project in 1 day (depending on how large your patch is).

The drywall patch material is located near the sheetrock/drywall area & you will see white bags of dry material with different numbers on them ie. 5, 20, 30, 45, & 90. You're looking at the right drywall patch bags. This drywall patch material is a fast drying non-shrinking drywall patch material thus its better known name of "quickset".

The associated number on the bag will tell you how long it will take for the drywall patch material to harden so you can then apply another coat of drywall patch material over it. These numbers mean minutes, so the 5 will mean that is how many minutes (5 minutes) it will take before you can apply another coat,etc..

If you have a smallish drywall patch/hole to cover, I would recommend something like the 30 minute or 45 minute quickset (if this is the first time you will be using the drywall patch product). I myself would generally use the 20 minute drywall patch material/quickset but I've used the product alot & know how it will respond,etc..

This drywall patch material comes in a dry form as you will need to mix the patch material in water before applying it to your wall. Mix the drywall patch material in a drywall pan with a 3" drywall putty knife. Start out with only putting a little of the drywall patch material in your pan to start off with (you don't want to mix up too much the first couple of times until you get use to this drywall patch material & how it goes on the wall,etc.).

It's also important to realize that if you get the drywall patch material that says 30 on it (for example), that doesn't mean you have 30 minutes to apply the drywall patch material to your wall. You will only have a certain amount of time to apply this drywall patch material to your wall patch. Mix up a little & you will see what I mean.

I would say you have maybe 6 or 7 minutes to apply the product to your wall (this is apprx. as the time may differ from batch to batch you mix up depending on how much water you put in). It also depends on how much you mix up in your pan & how big your drywall patch areas are. The quicker you put it on the wall, the better.

Use this drywall patch material for your taping & first coat of topping only. You do not want to apply your skin/skim coat (last coat) with this drywall patch product. I would recommend you using the regular mud, all purpose or topping sheetrock mud for your skim coat.

You want to apply a thin layer (skim coat) of "all purpose" or "topping" mud over your drywall patch material at your drywall patch on the wall. Your all purpose &/or topping mud are the "wet" drywall mud products you will find at the hardware store near the sheetrock/drywall materials area.

It's important to realize that no matter how smooth you apply the drywall patch material (quickset), you do NOT want to paint over it. If that's the only thing you remember from this article/post, you can put a gold star by your name. The reason is this:

The drywall patch material (quickset) is a very pourous material & when it dries, it will never accept paint the same as everything else on your wall. You will see the drywall patch & it will stick out like a sore thumb, no matter how smooth of a job you did.

That's why you have to apply the "all purpose" or "topping" drywall material (better known as mud) over the drywall patch material (quickset) in order for your paint to blend in to the rest of the paint on your wall(s). You call this last coat the skim coat because it's a very thin layer applied over the topping layer.

So let's review: You will use three layers of mud to your drywall patch. The first layer is the tape layer...that is the first coat of drywall patch material you will be using for your patch (to put your tape on with). Then you will apply a topping coat using the drywall patch material for this coat....this is the overall 2nd coat. You then will apply a skim coat (last of 3 coats) using wet all purpose or topping mud. So you will have 3 coats of mud ie. tape, top, & skim for a total of 3.

Try this drywall patch material & I think you will find it easier to patch your drywall patches!

Click here to get some free video painting tips for your drywall patch

Patch On!


Thursday, October 22, 2009

Staining Wood Doors....tip for the day

Staining wood doors....tip for the day. What's the tip? It's a very important tip that could make a "BIG" difference in your staining wood finish on your doors (or cabinets....whatever). It's a tip I had to learn the "hard" way as I did not notice it until the painting sub had already stained, sealed, & lacquered some wood doors he was doing for me.

The tenant was moving in at the end of the week & I still had to transport the finished stained wood doors to the jobsite, install the stained wood doors & metal frames, install the finished hardware, call for final inspections then be ready for the tenant on the big "move in day". I had one big problem to solve though.

Luckily, the "big problem" (staining wood doors) only happened to a couple of the wood doors that were to be stained......not all of them at least. The stained & finished wood doors looked great as I was loading them into the trailer to take them over to the jobsite. I didn't notice anything wrong in particular until I was actually installing the stained wood doors. I noticed a couple of the stained wood doors had some "spots" on them (quite a few actually). I couldn't tell exactly what "they" were. There weren't any spots (or actual "stains") on the wood grains of these particular doors so what could "they" be?

The rest of the stained wood doors looked fine. I couldn't, for the life of me, tell what had caused the spots. I called the painter & "quizzed" him about the spots & what could have happened when he was staining the wood doors, etc., etc., to cause the unsightly spots. I had dollar signs flashing before my eyes....these were "negative" dollars signs passing before my eyes, as I knew I would be "paying for it" in more ways than one!

While talking to the painter, we went over all kinds of possibilities when all of a sudden he said that the stained spots could have been "water marks". "What do you mean water marks" I asked. What could have possibly caused the water stained marks as the painter finished staining the wood doors in a warehouse? Until it "hit" me like a ton of bricks (this is for your benefit mind you).

I had picked up the wood doors from the door company. I carefully loaded the wood doors in an open trailer (not enclosed) & transported the wood doors to a warehouse where the painter did the staining & finishing of the wood doors. While I was unloading the doors (towards the end of the unloading) (I'm talking rain here). I big deal as there weren't that many rain drops on the last two wood doors & they dried right away so what's the big deal? Are you thinking here? What do you think the big deal was? Tick're suppose to be answering the question.

The BIG DEAL is this:

The painter didn't come out until the next day to start staining the wood doors. When he stained the wood doors he lightly sanded them first but he did not see anything unusual (water spots) because the rain drops had dried & didn't show any water spots at that time, so he didn't see them. The spots only became visible after he had stained & finished the wood doors. He was doing so many wood doors that he did not see the spots the spots weren't standing out that much plus the lighting in the warehouse wasn't that great....good enough for what he was doing though but nothing else.

The painter then told me (after the big discussion) that once you have any fresh water marks on a wood door that's going to be stained (water splashes, rain drops, spills, etc.), (here comes the "tip") you "HAVE" to wipe down the rest of the wood door with a wet matter what! I'm talking the entire side of the wood door where the water marks are. If they are just on one side of the wood door, then of course, you only have to wipe down the one side that has the water spots/marks. This had never happened to me before so I didn't I do!

It doesn't matter if it's stained wood doors we're talking about or any other type of wood that's going to be stained, cabinets, etc.. Water is water so please remember this tip & wipe that material down if you have rain drops present (or any other water marks for that matter). This tip could come in handy for you some never know.....but now you do!

**News Flash** I never knew this before. All this time & I never knew this. It was a very costly lesson but I have never forgotten it. Now......."You" are the one to benefit from my mistake. See all the valuable info. you are learning when you read my blog articles/posts? You are reading them aren't you?

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Paint On!


Wednesday, October 21, 2009

Painting Kitchen Cabinets

Painting kitchen cabinets should be left for the pros. I'm talking if you are in need of painting kitchen cabinets that are new. The hardest finish to make look good is painting kitchen cabinets from scratch....even for some pros.

The painting materials for kitchen cabinets, should be applied with an air sprayer as any imperfection will show on painted kitchen cabinets (and how many do-it-yourselfers out there can use an air sprayer good enough to paint kitchen cabinets like a pro?). I have a painter sub who always used to give me weird looks & his shoulders would sag when I told him I needed him to paint some more kitchen cabinets for me.....that's because painting kitchen cabinets (or any cabinet(s) for that matter) are very difficult to do.

If you are ordering &/or installing painted kitchen cabinets (or any other painted cabinets), the best thing to do is to order them pre-finished from a cabinet company. Some cabinet makers finish & paint their own cabinets (kitchen cabinets included) in a paint booth they have at their warehouse. Let them paint the kitchen cabinets for you then they can deliver & install the painted kitchen cabinets on-site for you.

Having a cabinet company schedule for painting your kitchen cabinets at their warehouse, can save you time & money (in some cases) rather than painting kitchen cabinets after they have been installed.

Another good idea is to purchase the painted kitchen cabinets from one of the big "box" stores or someplace like that. Of course, you may only get a few paint color choices that way so that might not work for you.

If you have some existing painted kitchen cabinets, & you want to re-paint them, then that's a whole other ball of wax. You have to ask yourself a few questions:

* Question #1: How good does the finish paint look on the existing painted kitchen cabinets?
* Question #2: Are there any paint runs on the existing painted kitchen cabinets?
* Question #3: What kind of shape are the hinges & pull handles in on your kitchen cabinets?
* Question #4: Will you be replacing the hinges &/or pull handles of your kitchen cabinets?
* Question #5: Will you be painting around the existing hinges on your kitchen cabinets?
* Question #6: Will you be removing your doors & drawers & removing all of the hardware before painting your kitchen cabinets?
* Question #7: Are there any paint brush "lines" in the finished paint on the existing kitchen cabinets?
* Question #8: How good of a job are you trying to achieve when painting the kitchen cabinets?
* Question #9: How much time & effort are you willing to put into painting the kitchen cabinets?
* Question #10: How much money will you be saving by painting the kitchen cabinets yourself?

Answering the above questions, and maybe some others that you now will come across, will decide for you if painting the kitchen cabinets is what you really want done and....more importantly.....who will be the one painting the kitchen cabinets & how good of a paint finish, on the kitchen cabinets, are you willing to live with.

If you still decide that painting the kitchen cabinets yourself is what you want to do (or maybe you don't have a choice), please consider discussing your project with your local paint store.
They will help you decide on the type of paint & they can also give you some pointers on the right type of paint brush (or mini roller) to use,etc..

Answering the above 10 questions will also help you in making your decisions for painting the kitchen cabinets yourself. Make sure you take a kitchen cabinet drawer &/or kitchen cabinet door to the paint store so they can see what existing type of paint you have on the cabinets as the cabinets could've been painted with an oil based paint as opposed to a latex based paint. Knowing this will greatly help the paint store determine alot of variables for your paint project.

Good luck with your decision.

Click here for some video painting tips for your next project

Paint On!


Tuesday, October 20, 2009

Goof Off Cleaner Remover....what to know

Goof Off Cleaner Remover is a great product (I'm talking the original formula here). Great products don't always mean they work in every circumstance though. Goof Off Cleaner Remover can be the worst thing to use.....if you don't know any better. Goof Off Cleaner Remover can be a life saver or a game breaker. Here's what you "need" to know:

* Goof Off Cleaner Remover can "remove" the existing paint finsh of the wall you are trying to clean. Dab on just a little Goof Off Cleaner Remover to a clean "white" rag. Gently rub the rag on the wall in circular motions being careful not to rub too hard. Try this in a small area first, to see if it will "break down" your soiled spot on the wall.

Be aware of how hard you are rubbing & for how long you have to rub before the spot starts to go away. There's a fine line as to knowing if the Goof Off Cleaner Remover is working to just remove the stain or if the Goof Off Cleaner Remover is, in fact, removing the spot as well as removing a portion of the existing paint on your wall.

You will think you have to rub more to get the spot off but you will then see (much to your dismay) that the wall will start feeling a little "sticky". If you feel this happening, that means that you are now removing the paint from the wall. Stop rubbing! You now have created a new mark, one that will "not" go away unless you apply touch up paint to the wall. Not good.

You also do not want to use any other color of rag except white, you know......the red rags you can sometimes get at the store or blue ones,etc.. The Goof Off Cleaner Remover is very powerful "stuff" & sometimes will remove part of the red dye,etc. from the colored rags. Stop & do not use these rags or you'll be in for a BIG surprise!

* Goof Off Cleaner Remover can also remove the pre-finished paint from metal door frames,etc. (the paint you do "not" want removed). The same thing happens here. Rub too long & too hard (on the "mark" you are trying to remove), & you will remove the pre-finished paint & the finish will have a "sticky feel" to it. Have a light touch & know when to stop.

* Goof Off Cleaner Remover will also remove spot stains/paint from carpets. Try squirting a little directly on the stained/soiled area & use a small tooth brush (or cleaning brush) using a circular rubbing action then blot dry with a white rag.

It's important to realize (and most people don't) that once you clean a carpet area with Goof Off Cleaner Remover, new dirt will have a tendency to magically adhere to this same area (almost like a magnet) just from "foot traffic". So hopefully your spot is just a small spot & not a large spot in a traffic area or the spot will reappear sooner than you think.

* Goof Off Cleaner Remover is "very" smelly when you are using it. Be aware of your surroundings & think about this "before" you start working with the Goof Off Cleaner Remover. You're eyes will start burning a bit too (depending on how much of the Goof Off Cleaner Remover you've applied). I'm talking the "original formula" here as I have not tried the "low smell" product as of yet. That might be your answer.

If you are going to be using Goof Off Cleaner Remover in an office environment with people around, you may want to do the work "after-hours", when no one is around, as you do not want any employees/workers complaining about the smell because they will! The smell is "potent" but goes away after awhile.

* Goof Off Cleaner Remover is a great product. Goof Off Cleaner Remover will remove "stuff" you never thought possible. Just be sure that "stuff" is what you want removed.

Click here to get some cool "free" video painting tips for your next painting project

Paint On!


Thursday, October 15, 2009

Do-It-Yourself can do it

Do-it-yourself painting. Are there any do-it-yourself painters out there? Do-it-yourself painting is a good way to save money. There's alot of projects out there that do-it-yourself painters can do. Check out my blog site with over 25 articles on do-it-yourself painting, tips, techniques, etc..

You will find articles like:

* Paint baseboards.....quick & easy
* Painting galvanized sheetmetal flashing.....and gutters
* Repainting interior wood doors....just got easy
* Painting Interior door frames
* Interior/Exterior Painting tips.....questions & comments
* Painting stucco....the right way
* Painting T1-11 siding
* How to caulk like a pro
* Paint Prep can be more important than painting
* Painting tip....pour your paint from the "backside"
* How much paint do I need?
* Tell a friend or make a comment
* Paint paneling....don't do it!
* Paint wall covering...should I do it?
* Smelly paint could "wreck" your next paint project
* Lamb Skin paint roller cover...simply the best in the business
* Change color of your bedroom walls should be easy
* Strain paint....a great idea!
* "Matching the Paint" made easy
* Color match your paint by saving your sheetrock scrap
* Save water when painting a wall.....who knew?
* Spackle or not to spackle....that is the question
* Prime a wall & do it right
* Paint a new CAN do it!
* Paint a wall like a pro
* Painting a sheetrock/drywall patch

Do-it-yourself painting is easy & fun. Couldn't find what you were looking for? Send me a comment & tell me what you would like for me to write on. I'm here to help. I want you to be a great do-it-yourself painter.

Do-it-yourself painting is not for everyone & not every do-it-yourself painter can tackle every painting job out there. Sometimes it's best to call a professional but check out the above articles on the blog & see how many you can do.

If you have a friend who you think would like to read this "post", please click on "tell a friend" at the bottom of this post so they can become a better do-it-yourself painter. They will thank you for it....& so will I!

Click here on how to get some "free" video painting tips

Paint On!


Tuesday, October 13, 2009

Paint Baseboards....quick & easy

Paint baseboards quick & easy. You don't have to be a pro in order to paint baseboards. Do you have good knees? Then you can paint baseboards. Do you have a steady hand? Then you can paint baseboards. Do you know how to attach masking tape? Then you can paint baseboards. Do you know how to use a caulk gun or can you use a putty knife?....well learn! (just kidding).....then you can paint baseboards. Keep the money in your pocket & do it yourself. Here's what you need to "know":

* Before you paint the baseboards, check to see if they need to be caulked. Make sure your caulk tube has a "small" tip on it as you don't want to apply too much caulking or you will have a mess on your hands.....literally. Caulk all visible "lines". Run a continuous thin bead of caulk at the top of the baseboard & all inside corners then wipe off excess. Check outside corners & apply caulking where needed. Painting your baseboards will come out looking top notch if you have all baseboards caulked & ready to go "before" you apply the paint.

* Before you paint the baseboards, check for any visible nail holes. Run your hand along the base & "feel" for any raised nail heads.....countersink these as needed. Here's where you need to make a decision: do you want to "caulk" the nail holes or do you want to "putty" the nail heads. What's the difference? I'm glad you asked.

* Caulking the nail holes is quicker but the "holes" have a slight tendency to "pucker in" ever so slightly because when you wipe off the caulking with your finger, without knowing it, your finger will have a natural "pushing in effect" on the caulking thus leaving a slight dimple in the nail hole. It's not very drastic so you will need to decide if this will bother you.

* Filling the nail holes with caulking & wiping off the excess with a "putty knife" will increase the amount of excess caulking, no matter how flat it is, and the caulking around the nail hole (on the face of the baseboard) will show once you apply the paint.....the nail hole may have disappeared but the amount of caulking around the nail hole on the face of the baseboard just got bigger. Putting a dab of caulking in the nail hole & wiping off the excess with your finger, is the better way, if you want to caulk the holes.

* The best way to fill the nail holes (but the longest way) is to apply putty over the holes. You will need to let this putty dry, then sand it, before you paint your baseboards. You will then be assured of not seeing any dimpled areas in your baseboard.

* Masking tape (I prefer 2" masking tape) you need it? I would only use masking tape at the bottom of the baseboard (if you are painting over hardwood floor, carpet, tile, linoleum, etc.). I would not tape off the top edge of the base where it returns to the wall...this is where "steady hands" come into play as it's much easier to "free-hand" the top edge.

* In some cases, you can paint the top edge of the baseboard the same color as your wall, making it that much easier to repaint your baseboards in the future. Take a look & see if that will work for your project.

* Painting the body of the baseboard requires a "smallish" tapered angled paint brush. Be careful not to apply too much initial paint towards the bottom of the baseboard as you do not want any excess paint to seep/push under the masking tape edge. Apply the paint to the middle section of the baseboard then spread toward the top & bottom of the baseboard with your paint brush. This will help you "cutin" the baseboard at the top & bottom accordingly. When painting the bottom portion of the baseboard, keep your paint brush at a flat "side to side" action rather than angled toward the bottom edge of your baseboards as this will keep excess paint from getting under the masking tape.

* It's good to invest $5 or so for a rubber knee pad (you know the ones used for gardening). This will come in handy & save those knees. I use one all the time. I couldn't live without'll see!

* Let the paint dry on the masking tape before pulling up the masking tape. Carefully pull the tape up at a 45 degree angle watching to make sure there is no excess paint built up on the tape edge, which may want to pull up some of the paint on the base towards the bottom of the baseboard. Score any of these visible areas before pulling up the masking tape. Roll the tape over itself, creating a ball, so you don't have any wet paint areas showing on the tape (as to prevent getting on your finished floors,etc.).

* Painting new baseboards require 1 coat of primer & 2 coats of finish paint. If the baseboards were purchased pre-primed (this is a good way) then 2 coats of finish paint (spot prime putty areas at nail holes....if you used putty). Repainting baseboards require 1 coat of finish paint (unless you are changing colors...then 2 coats would be preferable).

* Painting can do it. Why not save some money & do it yourself? You always wished you could. Now you can!

Click here on how to get other painting tips for your painting projects

Paint On!


Painting galvanized sheetmetal flashing...and gutters

Painting galvanized sheetmetal flashing & gutters require a little bit of "prep" work before the painting begins. I know it's not what you wanted to hear but "good prep"...."good paint job". If you paint your galvanized sheetmetal flashings & gutters "before" the proper steps.....then prepare yourself for a shocker. You don't want this to happen to you so here's what you're going to do:

* You will notice that your galvanized sheetmetal flashing(s) &/or gutters has an "oily" substance on it. This oily substance needs to be cleaned off before painting since your paint would vertually "slide off". Use a de-greaser cleaner of some sort. Wipe it on then wipe it off.

* It's now time to apply some vinegar to the galvanized sheetmetal flashings/gutters. Why? Because I said so that's why.....just kidding......this will clean any remaining oils or cleansers that may still be on there but more importantly, the vinegar (believe it or not) will "etch" the surface of the galvanized sheetmetal flashings/gutters thereby letting the primer & paint "stick & adhere" to the clean metal surface......pretty cool huh?

* Now you're ready to apply an exterior grade primer to the sheetmetal flashings/gutters (your "friendly neighborhood" paint store will help you determine what primer is best). One coat of primer will do.

* Applying 2 coats of finish paint to the sheetmetal flashings/gutters is the way to go when finishing your project (oh by the way...use a miniroller where able). And again....your "friendly neighborhood" paint store will be glad to help you decide what paint type & color you may need.....just ask.

* Painting galvanized sheetmetal flashing & gutters can be a "fun" project know the right steps.

* That's it. Sounds like alot of work but the "finish is in the prep" so if you want a great looking outcome to your project then you've got to do your time & follow the right steps. Hey, you can pay a painter to do it or you can do it yourself.....& save.....& it will still look like a pro did it! What could be better?

Click here to get some video painting tips for your next painting project

Paint On!


Sunday, October 11, 2009

Repainting Interior Wood Doors......just got easy

Repainting interior wood doors can be a project you can do.....yes you! It takes a little know-how but I am confident, if you follow the below will be able to paint like the pros. Repainting interior wood doors yourself can save you lots of $$. Here's the steps:

* Remove the pins from your existing interior wood door & remove the door. Remove the door & take it to the garage. You're going to repaint the door in the garage. You don't want to repaint the wood door in place as you will have difficulty painting around the door hinges & door knob not to mention getting paint on the door jamb on the hinge side, carpet, tile, wall(s), etc..

* Before you repaint the interior wood door, you are going to remove the existing hinges from the door. Be careful as you remove these hinges as you do not want to damage the surrounding painted wood area around the hinges (this happens sometimes). If the hinges are tight on the door (even after removing the screws) take special care on removing them.

* You will also be removing the door knob assembly from the door....note how the door handle comes apart so you can "remember" how it goes back together. Keep all of the door handle parts together so you don't lose any of the pieces.

* Time to set-up your working environment. You can set the door up in two different ways. You can lean the door against a wall & put wood blocks under the bottom edge to keep the bottom of the door up off of the floor or.... you can get two sawhorses then...put two 3" long screws in the top of the door & at the bottom of the door (towards both ends/letting each screw stick out about 1 1/2") & set the door flat between each sawhorse letting the screws set on the you can flip the door over each time without damaging your paint job.

* I prefer laying the door flat as you can control the sanding & repainting of the door better then painting up & down strokes evenly when leaning the door up against a wall....make sense? You might have to move some stuff around in your garage so you have enough room but it will be well worth it. Ready for the next step?

* It's now time to take some "fine" sandpaper & lightly sand the door before repainting it. This will put some "etch" marks in the door & make the new paint stick better. It will also remove any raised wood grain areas or soften any "bits" on the existing paint finish. Run your hand down the door when sanding has been completed & spot sand any other areas you feel necessary. You want the door feeling "smooth". Don't sand too much in any one area as you want all areas to naturally "blend" together when completed.

* When you have that done, don't forget to wipe the door down with a soft rag when complete so you get all of the dust off before repainting the door. Now you're ready to flip the door over & do the other side. So far so good.

* You're now ready for the paint. I will make the assumption that you will be repainting your interior wood door with the same color of paint that is now on the door (or something pretty close to the existing paint).

* The next quandary: do you use a paint roller or paint brush to repaint your interior wood door? That depends: If you have a 4,6,or 8 raised panel door let's say, then I would suggest you use a good finish paint brush since you will need to get in the nooks & crannies in & around the raised panel sections. You would first repaint the individual panel sections then graduate over to the middle, top, & bottom flat stile areas of the door then finish off with the full length vertical sections of the door. Take note that you make the brush strokes in the same direction as the wood grains on the door. Remember....nice even strokes.

* If you have a full "flat" door slab, then I would suggest using a mini roller when repainting this type of interior wood door. This will give you full even strokes from the top of the door to the bottom of the door with the miniroller........take care with applying the same amount of paint on your strokes as you want a nice even coverage. On the last pass through, make sure you go from top to bottom without any breaks so you don't get any unwanted paint marks on your door.

* Let the paint dry before flipping the door over to do the other side. Now repeat the above process for repainting the interior wood door. Don't forget to paint the edges of the door.

* You can now reinstall the door hinges then take the door in & pop the door back into place. Make sure you have clean hands & fingers as you do not want to "smudge" the paint. You will also want to make sure the paint is fully dry or your fingers could "indent right into the door" depending how heavy your door is (trust me...I know!) when you are carrying it back into the house. Careful not to bang into any walls now!

* Once you have the door back in it's opening you can reinstall the door handle assembly. Depending how old your handle unit is, you might want to spray a little silicone spray into the assembly before reattaching the unit. Close the door & check to see if the door strike is adjusted properly.

* There you have it! Remember not to "race" through this project as it will a bad way. Repainting your interior wood door(s) can be an easy project you can do yourself.....if you have the time...and the patience.'re "in-the-know!

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Paint On!


Friday, October 9, 2009

Painting Interior Door Frames

Painting interior door frames can be an easy project.....if you know how. Setting up the job properly & having the right painting materials is key. Painting interior (or exterior) door frames is a project you can do yourself......if you know the steps. Here's what you need to know:

* Before you start painting the door frames, remove the door from the door frame. This will give you a better overall finished job. Don't forget to remove the hinges from the door frame & the door strike that the door latches into: be careful when removing so you don't chip the paint or pull up any bits of wood.

* Caulk the door trim edges of your door frames (if this is a first time painting). Caulk any & all edges of trim, casings, door stops, door jamb connections, etc.. Do not leave any line uncaulked (no matter how tight it looks). Before you start your painting, also caulk the top of the header trim (this will prevent any unwanted "guests") & the side trim that connects to the sheetrock.

* Fill all nail holes on door frames (jambs) & casing trim. This can be done two ways: you can caulk these holes....or....use wood putty then sand when dry. Most people caulk the holes then wipe off with finger....this is a quick way to do it if you have lots of door frames to do....but the overall paint finish of the door frames will not come out as nice-looking as using the wood putty process as you can see very small impressions of where the nail holes are since the caulking has a tendency to push into the nail holes when you wipe it off.

* Using wood putty takes longer (for covering the nail holes) but your project will look way better. Make sure you sand the wood putty before painting though. You could also use "spackle" but I would not recommend this as spackle dries rough & pourous looking & the paint "takes" to the spackle areas different than the rest of the frame/casing areas ( will see exactly where your spackle areas are when you finish painting.....not good).

* Lightly sand the door frame & wipe down. Now you are ready to apply the primer (if this is a first time painting). Apply one coat of primer & let dry. Be careful around the door hinge cut-outs & the strike plate cut out as you do not want any primer overage to run down the frame.

* You're ready to apply the first coat of finish paint to the door frames but......there's one thing I want you to do first. Have you ever heard of "flotrol" before? I didn't think so. Flotrol is a product you put in your finish paint before painting the door frames. Flotrol will make your paint "blend" in better & not show the paint "strokes" as much. I've used this product for years & it makes the door frames look better when you're painting them.

* Put a little "flotrol" in your finish paint (make sure the flotrol is conducive to/with whatever type of finish paint you are using....if you have questions, ask). There's directions on how much to use on the container. Mix it in & apply your first coat of finish paint (if this is a first time painting) to the door frames. Let dry.

* Lightly sand this first coat of finish paint with very fine sand paper. Now apply the second coat of finish paint. Make sure you use a nice tapered paint brush for applying the paint. Be careful around the door hinges & strike plate area as previously explained.

* If you are just re-painting your door frames, you will only need to apply one coat of finish paint (if you are using the same color as the old paint finish) but use the flotrol OK? Do a quick check on the overall condition of the door frames/trim, & caulk or putty as needed. Lightly sand door frame & trim before painting.

* Make sure you remove the existing door from the door frame (if you are re-painting) & remove the hinges & strike plate. You could leave the door up without removing it but then you have to paint around the hinges/strike plate (or mask off the hinges/strike plate) & it's very difficult to apply the paint without hitting the door or properly finishing off the hinge side of the door frame. Your painting project will turn out better if you remove the door etc. especially if you are not a pro.

* Take your time, do a good job, have a game plan for your project, & you are set to go. Painting interior (or exterior) door frames can be fun & easy to complete....if you know how.....and now you do!

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Wednesday, October 7, 2009

Interior/Exterior Painting Tips......questions & comments

Do you have a painting tip you would like to share? Maybe you have a question you would like answered by VideoJoeKnows or make a comment in regard to interior/exterior painting,etc..

For your painting the bottom of this "post" you can send in a comment/question(s) & VideoJoeKnows will "add" to your comment. This may be helpful to you for your next painting project or maybe you would like to just share your tips on painting with us.

VideoJoeKnows will make every effort in answering your question(s)/comment(s) regarding painting tips or....whatever. Maybe you will even "stump" VideoJoeKnows.........who knows? :0

Either way.....VideoJoeKnows would love to hear from you. Click on the "comment" area at the bottom of this post.

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Tuesday, October 6, 2009

Painting Stucco......the right way

Painting stucco the right way requires using the correct type of paint product. Most stucco homes now days are completed in the "smooth" or "imperfect smooth" stucco finish. I recommend that the stucco then be "painted" rather than mixing in a "color" to the stucco before applying the last coat of stucco (better know as the color-coat).

Painting the stucco finish will give you the chance to touch up the stucco paint in the future or if you ever have to patch the stucco, it will be easier to paint the stucco patch rather than matching the color of the color-coat for a perfect color match to the stucco.

Knowing what "type"of paint to use for painting the stucco is the hard part. After the new stucco finish cures on the exterior walls, you will notice seeing lots of tiny hairline cracks. These cracks will show if you use the wrong paint when painting the stucco.

The best product to use when painting your stucco is a paint product called "elastomeric" paint. This paint looks like a wallpaper paste as it is very thick & dries "rubbery". This type of paint "stretches" with your walls so it will cover the initial hairline cracks & when your walls shift & move ever so slightly in the future (yes this happens), additional hairline cracks will form in your stucco. These cracks will be visible to the eye if you use the wrong paint product.

Painting the stucco with elastomeric paint will prevent any newly formed hairline cracks from showing as the elastomeric paint will stretch & "bridge over" these cracks. It's really a cool product. There are other brands of an elastomeric type paint available so check with your local paint store for what they carry,etc..

Elastomeric paint is not the cheapest type of paint to use when painting your stucco walls but it is the best type of paint hands down. Consider it an investment as this paint will last twice as long as conventional paint (or more) thus your realized savings.

You can also purchase a stretchable type of exterior caulking for all areas around trim edges,etc. which is highly recommended. Make sure you use the proper caulking so carefully read the labels before purchasing your caulking product.

Think twice before painting your stucco. Asking questions, getting answers, & making decisions on what paint to use for your stucco project are the most important steps of the process. Elastomeric paint should definitely be part of your game plan.

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Saturday, October 3, 2009

Painting T1-11 Siding

Painting T1-11 siding is a snap. T1-11 siding is very forgiving as the siding usually comes rough sawn & painting imperfections are easily hidden so even a beginner can easily do this painting project. Here's what you need to know:

Painting over new T1-11 siding requires a little prep work first. Caulk all your trim piece edges, check for imperfections on the T1-11 siding itself & caulk where needed, check to make sure all nailing has been completed & nails are down flush with the T1-11 siding surface, caulk any visible nail holes. Now you're ready to apply the prime coat of paint.

Apply the primer with a paint brush at all the "groove areas". It's hard to cover all the T1-11 siding groove areas with a paint roller so it's best to use a paint brush.....or you can use a paint roller then re go over all the missed spots with a paint brush. Tinting the primer close to the finish paint color is also a good idea.

If you do use a roller, make sure you use something like a 1 1/4 inch lambskin roller cover or contractor series roller cover so you can fit into the grooves better. You will still need to use a paint brush to finish up though (at any missed areas). You will also need to use a paint brush around trim edges,etc., everywhere you can't get with a paint roller.

You will be using lots of paint primer as the T1-11 siding really "soaks" up the paint. Don't be bashful. You'll be done with the primer in no time. Then you'll be ready to apply the finish paint to your T1-11 siding painting project.

Painting the T1-11 siding will require 2 coats of finish paint. You could apply just one coat of paint but the paint will last longer if you apply two coats plus your project will come out looking better since your paint will have a "full body look" with 2 coats of finish paint.

Apply the paint pretty much like you applied the primer making sure you use a paint brush to "finish off" the groove areas & around the trim edges,etc.. Using an extension pole for your paint roller will also speed up your project so get aquainted with it.

If you are "repainting your existing T1-11 siding" then follow the above steps minus applying the primer. Don't forget to check all areas & "caulk accordingly". You can apply just one coat of finish paint if you are matching the same color you already have. If you are slightly changing colors, then I would suggest you apply 2 coats of finish paint. A drastic color change will require that you apply a first coat of primer.

Painting your T1-11 siding is an easy project you can do by yourself or with a few friends. It's a great way to save money & don't you need a little extra money right now? Who said you couldn't paint like a pro? You can do it!

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Friday, October 2, 2009

How to a pro

How to a easier....than you think. How to install caulk takes a little practice but "caulk how to" is easy once you get the hang of it. There is a right way to caulk & a wrong way to install painter's caulk. Here's how to caulk & what you'll need to know:

* I'll be explaining to you how to install caulking with a painter's caulk gun & a tube of caulk. Before painting your wall, door frame, wall trim, or baseboard, it is important to caulk all the edges before installing your paint. It is important to realize that every "edge" will show if you paint your project without installing the matter how tight your "edges" are. You may think that the paint will cover the tightest of lines but your project will not turn out like you want if you do not use caulk on "all of your visible edges/lines.

* Caulk is the "wonder material" that makes a paint job look great rather than just OK. Cut the tip of the caulk tube as small as you can letting only a little caulk out at a time. A small tip on your caulk tube will work better than making this tip too big. Most of your caulking chores will be easier to accomplish if the caulk tube has a small tip rather than a large tip. Cut the caulk tube at a slight angle then you're ready to go.

* Caulking around door jambs & door trim takes a bit of time so be patient & work kind of slow making sure you do a good job. You can always go a little faster once you get better. Put the bead of caulk on for maybe a foot or so then wipe off the edge with your finger. The caulking should blend into the edge you are working on without building up any caulking excess.

* If you are building up too much caulking on your finger or if the caulking is spilling over onto the adjoining wood trim as you are pulling it down, that means you have applied too much caulking. Try another section with a little less caulk & pull it down with your finger again. Keep working & you will eventually get the feel for how much caulking to apply. Now you're ready to install a longer bead of caulk. See why you need a small tip on your caulk tube?

* If you are working on an area that needs more caulk than a small tip will allow for (caulking exterior trim for example), you can always cut the tip bigger but once you cut the tip bigger (the first time) you should never use this caulk tube again for any small beads you may need to apply at other areas as the caulking gets very'll see what I mean.

* Depending where you are caulking, you may want to pull the caulk with your finger then wet your finger on a wet rag then wipe the caulking again to get off any excess you may have. This works pretty good so always have a wet rag handy when you are installing caulk.

* Latex caulk works well for painting projects. You can also use acrylic latex caulking too. Just don't use "real" silicone sealant because paint will not cover over real silicone. Save the real silicone for applying around tubs,toilets,sinks,& any other "wet" areas, etc..

* I want to start painting....but caulking your project first (& spending the extra time making sure the caulking is installed properly) will make your project look better than ever!

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